Poland, old towns and salt mines.

Which Poland to choose?

Poland is big, flat in the north and mountainous in the south, along the Slovak border. For a trip of four or five days, the practical choice is the south, staying in Kraków: a city that came through the Second World War almost intact, with an enormous market square, Wawel castle above the Vistula and the old Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. From there, everything else is less than two hours away.

• If you are drawn to what is not visible on the surface, the visit is the Wieliczka salt mine, about 10 km from Kraków. Seven centuries of mining left galleries, salt lakes and St Kinga's Chapel, with chandeliers and reliefs carved from salt. You go down in a group with a guide, at a set time; the Tourist Route lasts two to three hours and covers about 3.5 km.
• If you are travelling with children or teenagers, the mine works very well: there are stairs, but the route is comfortable and the temperature does not change. For anyone over 10, the Miners' Route, with helmet and lamp, is more of an adventure.
• If you want fewer people, the Bochnia mine, about 40 km away, is the other genuine salt mine, also a World Heritage Site alongside Wieliczka.
• If you are looking for twentieth-century history, the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial, in Oświęcim, is about 50 km from Kraków airport. Entry to the site is free, but you must book online on the museum's official website: tickets are not given out at the gate.

One way to divide five days: two for Kraków, half for Wieliczka, one for Auschwitz-Birkenau and the rest for Kazimierz and the museums.

How do you get there from Spain?

By plane. Kraków has direct flights from Madrid with LOT and Ryanair, and from Barcelona, Valencia, Málaga and other cities with low-cost airlines, mainly Ryanair and Wizz Air. It is about three and a half hours from Madrid and a little less from Barcelona. Routes change with the season: check what operates on your dates.

Paperwork. Poland is in the European Union and in Schengen: a valid Spanish national ID card is enough. The European Health Insurance Card covers urgent care.

Money. Poland does not use the euro: the currency is the złoty (zł, PLN). Almost everything is paid for by card, including many tickets and transport. If you pay with a Spanish card, choose to be charged in złoty and not in euros: the shop's conversion usually works out more expensive.

How do you get around?

Kraków is explored on foot and by tram. From the airport to the main station there is a commuter train.

You reach Wieliczka by commuter train from the main station, Kraków Główny, to the Wieliczka Rynek-Kopalnia stop, a few minutes' walk from the mine entrance. Bus 304 also goes there. By car it is about 10 km along the A4 motorway, with parking next to the mine.

For longer journeys, the train links Kraków with Warsaw and the rest of the country. Buses and minibuses serve the villages and Oświęcim.

When to go and what it costs

Spring and early autumn are the best times for walking around the city. In July and August it is hot and there are more groups. From November to March it is very cold, often below zero, but indoor visits work just the same. In December, Kraków's market square has a Christmas market.

The budget is medium: food, transport and many tickets cost less than in Spain. Accommodation in the centre of Kraków goes up in summer and on long weekends.