Rissani and Its Souk

What it is and what you see

Rissani was the historic capital of the Tafilalet, the great oasis of south-eastern Morocco, and a crossroads between the north and south of the Sahara. When the neighbouring Sijilmassa, the caravan city of which only traces remain today, was destroyed in the 14th century, Rissani took over as the centre of trans-Saharan trade. The dynasty that reigns in Morocco also comes from here: on the southern edge of the town is the mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif, ancestor of the Alaouites.

Today it is still the area's great commercial centre, and its souk is the reason for the stop. It is a large souk, known above all for its trade in leather and goatskins. Around it, the region holds more than four hundred ksour, the fortified mud-brick villages of the Tafilalet.

When

The souk operates several days a week. Wikipedia gives it as especially lively on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, but other travel guides cite different days and we have not found an official calendar. Ask at your accommodation in Merzouga which days have the big market before planning the excursion. Best go in the morning, before the midday heat.

Getting there

Rissani is near Erfoud, about 40 km from Merzouga, and is the last large town before the Erg Chebbi dunes. If you arrive from Erfoud or from the north, you pass through it on the way to the desert: it is the natural moment to stop. On the road there is a fossil and mineral museum, and in Erfoud the International Date Fair is held.

Without a car, ask at your accommodation whether it organises the excursion, and settle the price and duration beforehand.

Price

Walking around the souk costs nothing. What you buy is haggled over, as in any Moroccan market: decide beforehand how much you want to pay.

Practical tips

Carry cash in dirhams and small notes. Dress modestly and ask permission before photographing people, especially vendors. If you go with children, the souk can be intense because of the crowds: hold them by the hand and do not stay longer than an hour or two.

Combine the visit with the mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif, from outside, and with the remains of Sijilmassa. On the way back to Merzouga, save your energy for the sunset camel ride or the sunrise from the top of a dune. On the way, Khamlia and its Gnawa music are 7 km south of Merzouga.