A loop through the valley terraces

What it is

Imlil is at 1,740 m, at the bottom of a High Atlas valley, an hour and a half from Marrakesh. Around it, on the slopes, several Berber villages of stone and mud brick live off what the terraces give: stepped fields, walnut and fruit trees, watered by channels that come down from the river. Between one village and another there are mule tracks, the same ones people use to go to the fields and to school.

This loop is not after a summit or a record: it is a two-hour walk among terraces and villages to see how people live in the Atlas. It is the plan for anyone not climbing Toubkal.

What the loop is like

There is no fixed or signposted route. The usual thing is a circular walk from Imlil that crosses the river, climbs a slope among terraces to one or two villages and returns along the other bank. An example:

1. You leave Imlil crossing the river and climb the opposite slope among walnut trees.
2. You reach the first village, among terraced fields. If you go with a guide, you may be invited to tea in a house.
3. You continue along the slope on mule tracks, with views of the valley and the summits at the head.
4. You come down by another path among terraces and irrigation channels to Imlil.

Allow about two hours, with short climbs and the odd stretch of loose stone. It is suitable for anyone who walks. If you prefer a clear route without a guide, the climb to Aroumd follows an obvious path.

Independently or with a guide

On your own you can easily get lost: the paths cross and there are no signs. A local guide shows you the shortcuts, explains the irrigation and the crops and introduces you to the people in the villages. You hire in Imlil, through your accommodation or with agencies in the valley such as Imlil Trek, which organise walks through the High Atlas valleys with accredited local guides. Agree price and duration before setting off.

When to go

From April to June, with the terraces green, and in September and October, with the walnut trees changing colour. In summer the valley is cool, but go early. In winter there may be snow and ice on the paths and it is cold: wrap up.

What to bring

• Mountain footwear or trainers with a good sole.
• Water and something to eat.
• A hat and sun cream.
• A warm layer: the weather changes fast in the mountains.
• Dirhams if you want to buy something in the village or leave a tip for the tea.

Respect in the villages

They are inhabited and conservative villages. Walk on the paths and not through the fields. Dress with shoulders and knees covered. Ask permission before photographing people, especially women and children, and do not hand out sweets or money to children.

With children and a dog

With children who walk it is a good, short walk with animals along the way. With a pushchair you cannot. With a dog, yes, but keep it on a lead near the flocks and always step aside from the mules, on the mountain side.

Where to sleep

At the top of the village, with views of Toubkal, is the Kasbah du Toubkal, which you reach on foot or by mule.