Aït Ben Haddou Ksar

What it is and why it matters

A ksar is a fortified village: mud-brick houses packed against one another, with walls reinforced by corner towers and a collective granary, the agadir, at the very top. The one at Aït Ben Haddou climbs a slope of the Ounila valley, about 30 km from Ouarzazate, and its oldest buildings are attributed to the 17th century. It was a stop on the caravan route that linked Marrakesh with the Sahara; you can still make out the old fondouk, the caravanserai. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1987.

Today few families live inside and most of the houses are shops, workshops or houses that are shown to visitors. You know it even if you don't know it: Lawrence of Arabia (1962), the third season of Game of Thrones (2013) and Gladiator II (2024) were shot here, among many others.

The visit step by step

1. Cross the river. At the foot of the ksar runs the Oued Maleh, with salty water that is not drinkable. You arrive from the new village, on the other bank, where the hotels, restaurants and car park are. You cross by a footbridge or, when the water is low, over the stones.
2. Climb through the alleys. From the entrance, the cobbled streets zigzag up between mud walls, covered passageways and wooden doors. Some open houses charge a few dirhams to show the interior and the roof terrace.
3. Reach the agadir. At the very top are the ruins of the fortified granary. From there you see the whole ksar at your feet, the Ounila valley with its orchards and, on clear days, the Atlas mountains.
4. Come down another way. There are several ways down; all end at the river.

Allow about two hours at an easy pace, counting the climb, a house or two and a while at the top.

Price

Walking around the ksar is free. You only pay if you go into a private house, hire a guide or buy something. If a "guide" attaches himself to you at the entrance, make it clear from the start whether you want his services and at what price.

When to go

First thing in the morning or at sunset. At midday come the groups doing the there-and-back trip from Marrakesh, the sun beats down and there is no shade on the climb. At sunset the mud turns red and the light is that of the films. In July and August Ouarzazate exceeds 38 °C: climb very early.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons. In winter, if you come from Marrakesh, check the state of the Tizi n'Tichka pass first, as it is sometimes closed by snow.

Getting there and parking

From Marrakesh it is about 190 km and four hours along the N9 and the Tichka; the turn-off to the ksar is signposted before you reach Ouarzazate. From Ouarzazate it is half an hour. Without a car, you take a bus to Ouarzazate and from there a grand taxi. Park in the new village, opposite the ksar: cars cannot go in.

With children, dogs and reduced mobility

The alleys are stone and earth, with uneven steps and steep slopes at the end. With children who can walk it is an entertaining excursion; with a pushchair, no: use a baby carrier. It is not wheelchair accessible beyond the riverbank. With a dog you can walk around, but think about the heat and the lack of water.

Where to sleep

Sleeping nearby lets you see the ksar without groups, at dawn or in the last light. You have Kasbah Tebi, next to the ksar, and Riad Ksar Ighnda, a few kilometres away. In Ouarzazate, complete the day with the Taourirt kasbah and the Atlas Studios.