Casa Ellul
Why we like it: Nine suites in a Victorian townhouse on Old Theatre Street, opposite the Carmelite church, with wooden balconies, a courtyard and terraces with jacuzzis.
Duration3 nights, Thursday to Sunday
How to get thereDirect flight to Malta and bus to City Gate
Getting aroundOn foot and by boat
TicketsAbout €40 pp
Best timeApril – June · September – October
The plan
The plan, hour by hour
Designed to arrive on Thursday afternoon and return on Sunday. Friday and Saturday are the days for the visits that close on Sunday (the co-cathedral) and for lunch at Rubino, which is not open at the weekend at midday; on Sunday, the boat to the Three Cities and St Elmo. You do not need a car at any point.
Thursday
- 118:00Arrival and first stroll
Airport bus to City Gate, drop your bags and walk down Republic Street when the city empties of cruise passengers.
- 220:00Dinner at Ta' Nenu
Oven-baked ftira and fried rabbit on St Dominic Street; open every day.
Friday
- 108:30Breakfast at Caffe Cordina
On Republic Square, under the painted ceilings.
- 209:00St John's Co-Cathedral
At opening time, before the groups: Caravaggio's Beheading of St John the Baptist. €15.
- 311:00Grand Master's Palace
The Order's armoury and the State Rooms. €12.
- 413:00Lunch at Rubino
The old 1906 confectioner's: fenek moqli and Sicilian cassata. Book.
- 515:45Cannon at Upper Barrakka
The 16:00 shot of the Saluting Battery, above the Grand Harbour.
Saturday
- 110:00Boat to the Three Cities
The lift from Upper Barrakka to the quay and the €3 catamaran to Birgu: harbour walk and Fort St Angelo.
- 214:00Free afternoon in Sliema or at the pool
Boat from Marsamxett to Sliema for a walk along the coast, or the hotel pool.
- 320:00Dinner at Rubino
Rubino is open on Saturday evening; if you prefer to repeat Maltese cooking, Ta' Nenu.
Sunday
- 111:00Fort St Elmo
The fort of the Great Siege and the National War Museum. If In Guardia is on, normal entry from 12:00.
- 214:00Return
Bus from City Gate to the airport.
Valletta is a pocket-sized capital: 0.61 km² inside the walls, from City Gate to the tip at St Elmo in a quarter of an hour on foot. With three nights you see it without rushing, cross by boat to the Three Cities, eat at three very different places and still have time to sit at Upper Barrakka watching the ships come in. All on foot, without a car.
How do you get there?
From Spain, a direct flight to Malta from several cities, all year from Madrid and Barcelona. The airport is at Luqa. To Valletta, a direct bus to the City Gate terminal (€2.50 in summer and €2 in winter, paying the driver by contactless card) or a fixed-fare taxi bought at the airport booth. A national ID card is enough.
Where to sleep?
| Accommodation | Area | Who it is for |
|---|---|---|
| Osborne Hotel | South Street, inside the walls | Three stars, a pool on the terrace, 550 m from the buses |
| Casa Ellul | Old Theatre Street, opposite the Carmelite church | Nine suites in a townhouse, for a trip as a couple |
| The Phoenicia Malta | Floriana, beside City Gate | Five stars with gardens, spa and pool; pets admitted |
The plan is designed from the Osborne, a knights' palace with 63 rooms and a pool. For an occasion, Casa Ellul has suites with the bath on the balcony or the jacuzzi on the terrace; with children or a dog, The Phoenicia has seven acres of garden beside the city gate.
For eating
Three tables, three prices. Caffe Cordina is the historic café on Republic Square, for breakfast or an afternoon snack with a cannolo or a honey ring. Ta' Nenu is the home of the ftira and fried rabbit, open every day at midday and in the evening, with a children's menu. Rubino is the special meal: a period room, a blackboard menu and a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand; closed on Sunday.
What about one more day?
Cross to Gozo: ferry from Ċirkewwa, the Ġgantija temples, the Cittadella and sunset at Dwejra. Or give the day to Comino's Blue Lagoon, from June to October.
Map
The stops, in order
What to do
Eat
88 €Stay
Services
Plan the trip
Valletta, step by step
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
When to go to Valletta
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Best timeGood timeLow season
Where to stay
Where to stay in Valletta
Osborne Hotel
Why we like it: A three-star hotel on South Street, inside the walls, in a knights' palace: 63 rooms, a terrace pool and buffet breakfast.
The Phoenicia Malta
Why we like it: Malta's first five-star, opened in 1947 beside City Gate: 132 rooms, seven acres of garden, a pool above the harbour and a spa in a bastion.
Where to eat
Where to eat in Valletta
Caffe Cordina
What to order: a coffee with a pistachio or ricotta cannolo, or a Maltese sweet from the house such as the honey ring, sitting on the square terrace
Open every day of the year, public holidays too, from 8:00. Closing time is not fully published and in summer it is extended.
Ta' Nenu
What to order: a ftira to share, such as the Ta' Nenu or the pork one with Maltese sausage, and the fried rabbit with garlic (fenek moqli); for dessert, imqaret with ice cream
Open every day at midday and in the evening. The booking on the website is a request that they confirm by phone or email; for the same day, call.
Rubino
What to order: the fenek moqli, the fried rabbit in red wine with a bittersweet finish, and for dessert the Sicilian cassata; let them tell you about the blackboard of the day
Lunches only Monday to Friday; dinners Monday to Saturday. Closed on Sunday. The Michelin Guide includes it with a Bib Gourmand.
Tips
Worth knowing first
- 1Do not leave St John's for Sunday
The co-cathedral is closed to visitors on Sundays and public holidays.
- 2Book Rubino
The room is small; it is closed on Sunday.
- 3Flat shoes
Polished stone streets, sloping and with steps.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
Are three nights in Valletta enough?
Yes, for the city, the Three Cities and some rest. With four, you add Gozo.
Do I need a car?
No. Everything is on foot and by boat; parking in Valletta is difficult.
Where should I sleep in Valletta without a car?
Inside the walls, such as the Osborne or Casa Ellul, or beside City Gate, at The Phoenicia.
When to go?
April to June and in September and October. In July and August it is very hot.