Via Francigena from San Quirico d'Orcia to Radicofani

The stage in numbers

It is stage 36 of the Via Francigena in Tuscany, the one that crosses the Val d'Orcia from north to south. According to the official Tuscan Via Francigena website:

• Distance: 33 km.
• Ascent: 908 m up and 532 m down.
• Walking time: 7 h 15 min without stops.
• Difficulty: very demanding.
• Surface: 44% tarmac and 56% dirt tracks and cart roads; no stretch of mountain path.
• Cyclable: 99%, by mountain bike or gravel bike.

It is a linear stage, long and with a steep climb at the end, when you already have the day in your legs. Do it only if you are used to walking more than 30 km.

The route, step by step

1. San Quirico d'Orcia. You leave the village heading south among fields and cypresses.
2. Vignoni Alto. The first landmark is this small fortified village on the hill, with a view of the valley.
3. Bagno Vignoni. You go down to the thermal square, with its pool of hot water; you can no longer bathe in it. There is water and bars: it is the stop for filling bottles.
4. Castiglione d'Orcia and the Rocca di Tentennano. An optional short detour that the official guide recommends, with a view of the fortress.
5. The Orcia and Paglia valleys. The central stretch, long and open, passes the old abandoned hospital of Le Briccole and crosses several fords.
6. The Amiata lands. The path passes near Bagni San Filippo, the free hot springs in the woods, which you can visit with a detour.
7. The climb to Radicofani. A long, hard climb to the village and its fortress, on top of a hill that you see from afar all day.

Water, food and services

There are few water points and they are unevenly spread. The official guide lists three: Bagno Vignoni, a bar in Gallina, about 500 m from the path along the Via Cassia, and the Podere San Giorgio agriturismo. Set off with at least two litres per person in spring and autumn and more in summer, and carry food for the whole day. Shade is scarce on the central stretch.

Fords and bad weather

The guide warns that some fords must be crossed with caution. The one before Le Briccole can be difficult after heavy rain, as can that of the Formone stream, near the junction towards Radicofani; the latter is avoided by the provincial road, rejoining the path after a bridge. If it has rained a lot in the preceding days, expect to get wet or to take detours by road. In a storm, do not stay on the open hills of the valley.

When to do it

Spring and autumn. In summer the valley is very hot and there is almost no shade: if you have no other date, set off at dawn. In winter the days are short for 33 km and the fords carry more water.

How to organise it

• Split it in two. If you don't want to do 33 km in one go, stop halfway, for example at Bagno Vignoni or Castiglione d'Orcia, and finish the next day.
• By bike. As it is almost all track and tarmac, it can be done in a relaxed day by mountain bike or gravel bike; watch the fords and the traffic where the path touches the Cassia.
• The return. It is linear: sort out beforehand how to get back from Radicofani to San Quirico, with a second car or a booked taxi, because don't count on finding transport when you arrive.
• Waymarking. It is the official Via Francigena route, marked with its pilgrim logo. Carry the track from the official website on your phone anyway.

With a dog it is possible, but consider the heat, the tarmac and the lack of water. With children, better to do only a short section, such as San Quirico – Bagno Vignoni.