Piazzale Michelangelo and Gregorian vespers at San Miniato al Monte

The plan

It is a whole evening without tickets or bookings. You cross the Arno, walk up to Piazzale Michelangelo, the great terrace over the city, and continue uphill a few more minutes to the basilica of San Miniato al Monte. If you arrive before 18:30, you hear the monks sing vespers in Latin and Gregorian chant. Afterwards you walk down at night with the city lit up.

Piazzale Michelangelo

The square was opened in the 19th century on the Oltrarno hill as a viewpoint over the city, with a bronze copy of the David in the centre. From the balustrade you have the whole historic centre in front of you: the Ponte Vecchio and the other bridges over the Arno, the dome of the Duomo, Giotto's campanile, the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio and, behind, the hills of Fiesole. It is free and always open. At sunset it fills up: if you want a place at the railing, arrive half an hour early.

San Miniato al Monte

The basilica is a little higher up, above a flight of steps. Its construction began in 1018, under Bishop Alibrando, on the spot where St Miniato was venerated, and it is one of the clearest examples of Florentine Romanesque. The façade of white marble and green serpentine, with its geometric designs, is crowned by a copper eagle: the symbol of the Arte di Calimala, the merchants' guild that looked after the church from 1288.

Inside, look out for:

• The inlaid marble floor of 1207, with a zodiac panel, and the Romanesque pulpit of the same year.
• The Cappella del Crocifisso, by Michelozzo (1448), with the terracotta vault by Luca della Robbia.
• The apse mosaic, with the Redeemer, of 1297.
• The 11th-century crypt, with frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi.
• The sacristy, with the life of St Benedict painted by Spinello Aretino in 1387.
• The Chapel of the Cardinal of Portugal, the work of Antonio Rossellino (1459–1467).

Since 1373 it has been looked after by Olivetan monks, who still live in the abbey and make liqueurs, honey and herbal teas. Outside, the terrace in front of the façade has another view of Florence, quieter than the Piazzale's, and to one side is the monumental cemetery of the Porte Sante.

Hours and sung prayers

• Basilica: Monday to Saturday, from 9:30 to 13:00 and from 15:30 to 19:00; Sunday, from 8:15 to 13:00 and from 15:30 to 19:00.
• Vespers: every day at 18:30, sung by the community in Latin and Gregorian chant.
• Mass in Gregorian chant: on weekdays at 18:00; on Sundays and holidays, the one at 17:30.

During services the basilica is not visited as a tourist: you go in to attend, in silence. If you want to see the interior at leisure, arrive before 17:30. Entry is free and you don't need to book. It is a church in use and a living monastery: dress and speak accordingly.

Getting there

On foot from the centre: cross the Ponte alle Grazie or the Ponte Vecchio and climb the ramps from Porta San Niccolò or the steps from Via di San Salvatore al Monte. Count 20 to 30 minutes from the river, always uphill. By bus, line 12 leaves from Santa Maria Novella station and stops at Piazzale Michelangelo. The Piazzale has car access, but at sunset it fills with people: on foot or by bus is easier.

If you have spent the morning at the Bardini Garden or at Boboli, you can link up over the hill without going back down to the river.

With children and reduced mobility

The walk is long and uphill, with steps at the end; with a pushchair, take bus 12 and walk only the last stretch. Children cope well with the Piazzale; vespers are short, but call for silence.