
Hotel Olivedo
Why we like it: 1896 Liberty-style hotel facing the Varenna jetty, five minutes' walk from the station: 20 rooms, its own restaurant, open February to October.
Itinerary · 2 nights
An hour from Milan by train: a night in Como and another in Bellagio, with Balbianello and the Greenway, a kayak around the point and the Orrido of Bellano; all by train and boat.
Leaves from Milan · 1 h
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The plan
Designed for Friday to Sunday, from April to October, when Hotel Florence and Locanda Cavallino are open and the boats run more often. The first night, in Como; the second, in Bellagio, in the middle of the lake. You return to Milan by train from Varenna, without retracing your steps.
Friday
Train from Milano Cadorna to Como Lago and, a few minutes away, the 1894 funicular: 7 minutes up and a stroll to the San Maurizio viewpoint. €3.60 each way. Check that you are not caught by the works closure from 9 to 27 November 2026.
A short taxi ride to Lora, in the hills. Trout ravioli, lake-fish guazzetto and more than 200 wines. Kitchen from 12:00 to 14:00; closed on Wednesdays. Book on their website.
Leave your rucksack on the lakefront and stroll along the Como shore. Aperitivo in the hostel garden.
Saturday
Navigazione Laghi boat along the west shore to Lenno. From the Lido di Lenno, Bellagio Boat Service takes you to the villa in a few minutes with the garden ticket, from €24.90. Booking is compulsory.
From Lenno to Tremezzo on foot along the signposted path, among villas and villages. Wear comfortable shoes: there are cobbles and steps.
Boat from Tremezzo or Cadenabbia to Bellagio and a walk to the point. The kitchen does not close from 11:30 to 22:00: perch, agoni and missoltini.
On the quay square. Ask for a room with a lake view and have a light supper on the wisteria terrace if the restaurant is open.
Sunday
On foot to Pescallo: the 9:00 departure with Bellagio Water Sports, in a group of eight at most, about 90 minutes. Book beforehand.
A 15-minute ferry to Varenna and a short train to Bellano. The walkways of the gorge, 45 minutes; €5 with the train or boat ticket.
Back in Varenna, opposite the quay: perch risotto and tables outside. Open from February to October; call to book, the website does not publish the hours.
From Varenna-Esino to Milano Centrale, about 64 minutes.
Lake Como is explored by boat, and in two nights you see it from the city to the centre without getting into a car. You arrive by train at Como, go up to Brunate and sleep beside the quays; the next day you go down the west shore to Villa del Balbianello and walk a stretch of the Greenway before crossing to Bellagio. On Sunday you paddle round the point, cross to Varenna and return to Milan by train from the other shore.
Fly to Milan (Malpensa or Linate) or to Bergamo. From Milano Cadorna, Trenord regional trains reach Como Lago in about 60 minutes, for €4.80. The return is by the other shore: from Varenna-Esino to Milano Centrale, in about 64 minutes. You do not need a car at any point; with one, in fact, you would complicate things with the car parks at Bellagio and Varenna.
| Accommodation | Area | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Ostello Bello | Como lakefront | Dormitories or a private room with bathroom, two minutes from the boats |
| Hotel Florence | Bellagio quay square | Three-star with a wisteria terrace, from €190 a night |
| Hotel Olivedo | Opposite the Varenna quay | Alternative to Bellagio for the second night, five minutes from the train; no under-14s |
It works well with children who can walk: they like the funicular and the Orrido, the boats are short and the Greenway can be cut short wherever you like. The kayak requires age 8 and being able to swim. For the second night with children under 14, sleep in Bellagio: Hotel Olivedo does not admit them.
Map
Plan the trip
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
How you travel
The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.
Lake Como is best done without a car. Trenord regional trains run from Milan to Como Lago in an hour and to Varenna-Esino in a little over an hour, and from the jetties the public Navigazione Laghi boat links Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio in a quarter of an hour. The shore roads are narrow and parking in the central villages is expensive.
Where to stay
We show you what suits the way you travel.Change how you travel

Why we like it: 1896 Liberty-style hotel facing the Varenna jetty, five minutes' walk from the station: 20 rooms, its own restaurant, open February to October.

Why we like it: Three-star hotel on Piazza Mazzini in Bellagio, beside the jetty, run by the same family since the 19th century; wisteria terrace over the lake.

Why we like it: Hostel with a 24-hour bar on Como's lakefront, two minutes from the jetties: dormitories and private rooms with bathroom, a kitchen and a garden.
Where to eat

What to order: the lake antipasto and the riso in cagnone with perch fillet, or the grilled agoni.

What to order: the mixed lake-fish antipasto and the perch risotto, the house dish.

What to order: the pumpkin risotto (for two), the trout ravioli or the lake fish guazzetto with riso in cagnone.
Tips
Buy the one-day free-circulation ticket for the mid-lake boat in Bellagio: on Sunday you make three journeys and it pays off.
Do not try to fit Balbianello, the whole Greenway and Bellagio into a Saturday in July with your own car: the shore traffic jams and car parks eat the day.
Questions
The budget depends mainly on accommodation: Hotel Florence publishes rooms from €190 a night, while the hostel in Como does not publish rates. Trains, boats and tickets are paid separately, as is the kayak.
Not as it stands: Hotel Florence and Locanda Cavallino close in winter and the funicular stops from 9 to 27 November 2026. Out of season, sleep both nights in Como.
No. Train to Como on the way there, boats around the lake and train back from Varenna.
Because from Varenna the train goes straight to Milano Centrale and you do not have to retrace the whole Como branch by boat.
Geocaliahttps://www.geocalia.com/en/italy/lombardy/lake-como/itineraries/two-nights-balbianello-and-bellagio