44.48° N · 11.30° E · Bologna
The longest portico in the world starts at Porta Saragozza, runs level along Via Saragozza to the Meloncello arch and climbs the hill to the sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca: 3.8 km and 666 arches, with 215 m of climb in the final part. If you do not want to walk down, the San Luca Express tourist train takes you back to Piazza Maggiore.
Part of Bologna
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Independent companies: you book with them, on their terms. Prices are as they publish them and may change.
Step by step
The portico begins at the Bonaccorsi arch, next to the gate in the city wall, about 20 minutes' walk from Piazza Maggiore.
316 arches on the level as far as the Meloncello arch, where the portico crosses the road and starts to climb.
350 more arches uphill, with flights of steps, up to the sanctuary at 280 m. This is the tiring part: the average gradient is around 10%.
The basilica at the top of the hill, with a view over Bologna and the plain.
Walk down the same portico or take the San Luca Express from the sanctuary stop.
A continuous portico built between 1674 and 1721 linking the city with its sanctuary. Rain or shine, you are under cover the whole way.
Bologna is the city of porticoes, and since 2021 UNESCO has recognised them as World Heritage. The San Luca one is the longest: 3,796 metres from the city wall to the sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, on top of the Colle della Guardia, at about 280 metres above sea level. It was designed by Gian Giacomo Monti, and every year the procession carrying the icon of the Virgin to the city goes up and down it.
Walking up is how the Bolognese go to the sanctuary, whether to pray, to train or out of Sunday habit. On the way you find the fifteen chapels of the mysteries of the rosary and, at the end, a wide view of the city and the plain, with the hills of the Apennines around.
Anyone who can walk for an hour. The first kilometre and a half is flat and the final slope, although steep, has landings and steps. It works with children who walk well and with dogs. With a pushchair, the flat stretch is easy, but the climb is complicated by steps: in that case, go up on the tourist train.
If you have knee problems, walk up and come down by train: the descent on steps puts more strain on them than the climb.
The present basilica dates from the 18th century, the work of Carlo Francesco Dotti, who began the reconstruction in 1723. Inside is venerated a Byzantine icon of the Virgin and Child, 65 × 57 cm, covered since 1625 by a silver sheet that leaves only the faces visible. Every year the icon is carried down in procession to the city and returns to its sanctuary; the celebrations fall on the Sunday after the Ascension: if you coincide, you will see the portico full of the faithful.
All year. The portico protects you from rain and sun, so it is a good plan even on a grey day, although the views from the top are better with a clear sky. In summer go up early: the slope is hot. On Sunday mornings many Bolognese are walking up; on weekdays it is quieter.
Nothing, if you go up and down on foot. The San Luca Express, the tourist train that leaves from Piazza Maggiore and runs up beside the portico, costs €15 return per person, €8 for ages 6 to 10 and €3 for under-5s. It has an audio guide in ten languages, Spanish included. The ticket is not refundable and gives you a place on the first available train on the chosen day.
It is one of the few walks that improve in the rain: you are under cover from start to finish. All you lose is the view from the sanctuary.
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Tips
The climb is the lovely part and the descent feels long. The San Luca Express ticket includes a return, but you can use only the way back.
The climb is under cover, but the heat of July and August is felt on the slope.
On the way there are fifteen chapels of the mysteries of the rosary: for children it works as a game for the climb.
From the upper stretches, between the arches, you see the rooftops of Bologna.
Questions
Around an hour and a quarter going up at an easy pace from Porta Saragozza. Coming down, less.
The first kilometre and a half is flat. The final 2.3 km climb 215 m with steps and ramps.
No. The portico and the sanctuary are free. The tourist train back costs €15 return.
Yes, with children who walk well. With a pushchair, the climb is complicated by the steps.
Yes. The portico is a public walkway; inside the basilica, ask before going in with one.
666 by the most usual count; depending on how they are counted, between 658 and 666.
Geocaliahttps://www.geocalia.com/en/italy/emilia-romagna/bologna/things-to-do/san-luca-portico