Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali on Foot

What it is

Spaccanapoli is the straight street that "splits Naples" in two: more than a kilometre in a straight line through the historic centre. It is the old plateia of the Greek city and the lower decumanus of the Roman one, and it preserves a layout more than two thousand years old. It does not have a single name: in the most visited stretch it is called Via Benedetto Croce and then Via San Biagio dei Librai. Parallel to it, one block to the north, runs Via dei Tribunali, the greater decumanus. Between the two, and in the narrow streets that cross them, is a good part of what there is to see in the centre, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.

This walk is independent and free: you only pay for the churches, cloisters or museums you decide to go into.

The route step by step

About three kilometres in total, out along one street and back along the other, with no hills.

1. Piazza del Gesù. You start here, with the diamond-point stone façade of the church of Gesù Nuovo and, opposite, the basilica of Santa Chiara, with its majolica cloister.
2. Via Benedetto Croce. You walk east to Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, with the basilica of the same name. A step away, along Via De Sanctis, is the Sansevero Chapel, which needs a reservation.
3. Largo Corpo di Napoli. The statue of the god Nile, a Roman sculpture that gave the district its name, and the church of Sant'Angelo a Nilo.
4. Via San Biagio dei Librai. The booksellers' street, with shops, pastry shops and workshops. On the left runs Via San Gregorio Armeno, the nativity-makers' street, with figure workshops open all year.
5. Via Duomo. Spaccanapoli continues towards Forcella, but the walk turns north here to the cathedral, which holds the Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro.
6. Return along Via dei Tribunali. Heading west you pass Piazza San Gaetano, with San Paolo Maggiore, San Lorenzo Maggiore and the entrance to Napoli Sotterranea, and pizzerias with queues on the pavement. The walk ends at Piazza Bellini or Port'Alba, a stone's throw from Piazza Dante.

How long it takes

Just walking, a little over an hour. With stops at a couple of churches, the nativity street and something to eat, allow about three hours. If you add Sansevero or Napoli Sotterranea, a good half day.

Getting there

By metro, get off at Dante (line 1) and walk to Piazza del Gesù, or start at Piazza Bellini. The historic centre is a restricted traffic zone: do not go by car. From the central station, Via Duomo is about twenty minutes' walk or one metro stop from Duomo station.

When to go

In the morning more shops and workshops are open and the churches are usually open. Many close at midday and reopen in the afternoon, each with its own hours: if one in particular interests you, check beforehand. In December Via San Gregorio Armeno fills with people for the nativity scenes; if you go then, go early. In summer walk on the shady side of the street: the streets are narrow and there is almost always some.

With children and pushchairs

It is flat, but the pavements are narrow, the ground is stone and motorbikes pass. With a pushchair it can be done, with patience; with small children, hold their hands at crossings. The nativity street, with its figures, usually delights them.

Eating along the way

On Via dei Tribunali there is a concentration of counter and shared-table pizzerias. To eat standing up, ask for a pizza a portafoglio, folded in four, or something fried from a street stall. At mealtimes there are queues: go before one o'clock or after three.