Ancient Thera, on Mesa Vouno mountain

What it is

Ancient Thera was the island's capital for more than a thousand years. It occupies the ridge of Mesa Vouno, the limestone mountain of the south-east cape that separates the beaches of Kamari and Perissa. According to Herodotus, it was founded by Dorian settlers led by Theras, who gave his name to the island, then called Kallisti. The city was founded in the 8th century BC and was inhabited at least until the 9th century AD. From here in 631 BC went out Thera's only colony, Cyrene, in North Africa.

Its great era came between 288 and 145 BC, when the island depended on Ptolemaic Egypt and its fleet was based here. Afterwards it was Roman. It was thoroughly excavated by the German Friedrich Hiller von Gaertringen between 1896 and 1902.

What you will see

The visit follows the ancient main street along the ridge, from north-west to south-east. On the way:

• The agora, the centre of the city, with the Stoa Basilike, a long building with Doric columns from the early 3rd century BC.
• The theatre, partly of the 2nd century BC, which also served as a council chamber; the stage building is Roman.
• The sanctuaries: of Aphrodite and Hera next to the entrance, of the Egyptian gods, and that of Apollo Karneios at the end of the ridge.
• Districts of Hellenistic and Roman houses, public baths and underground cisterns for rainwater.
• Inscriptions carved in the rock, at the south-east end, in Thera's archaic alphabet.

From above you see Kamari on one side and on the other the beaches of Perissa and Perivolos.

Opening hours and tickets

The hours are short and change by month. According to the Ephorate of Antiquities of the Cyclades, for 2026:

• From April to October: from 8:30 to 15:30; closed on Wednesdays.
• November: only Friday to Sunday, from 8:30 to 15:30.
• From December to February: closed; opens only by appointment with the Ephorate.
• March: Monday and Thursday to Sunday, from 8:30 to 15:30.

The last entry is at 15:10. Admission costs €10 (€5 reduced), according to the Ephorate's notice; it is bought at the ticket office or on the Ministry of Culture's ticketing website, linked from its page.

How to get there

The entrance is at the Sellada, the saddle between Mesa Vouno and Mount Profitis Ilias. You go up from two sides:

• By car, from Kamari: a narrow road with hairpin bends climbs to near the entrance. Up top the space to leave the car is limited: go early. By quad or scooter, take care on the bends.
• On foot, from Perissa or Kamari: there are paths that climb the slope, steep and without shade. Bring plenty of water and set out early.

The KTEL bus from Fira goes to Kamari and Perissa: €2.20 to Kamari and €2.70 to Perissa.

How long it takes and who it suits

The visit to the site lasts about an hour and a half. With the climb and descent on foot, allow half a morning. Up top there is no shade or facilities: bring water, a hat and closed shoes, because the ground is uneven stone. It is a visit for teenagers and adults who enjoy the landscape as much as the ruins. With small children it is short if you arrive by car, but watch the edges: there are unprotected drops. It is not wheelchair accessible.

In the wind

Mesa Vouno is very exposed. With a strong meltemi, in July and August, it blows violently up top: hold on to hats and phones and don't go near the drops.