Climbing Mount Zas from the Aria spring

The mountain

Zas, to the south-east of Filoti, is 1,003 m high and is the highest point of the Cyclades. Tradition says Zeus spent his childhood here, hence the name. On its west slope, at about 630 m, opens the Zas cave, with chambers up to 11 m and stalactites; it was inhabited from the Neolithic and its finds are in the Archaeological Museum in the Chora. Near the Levgasa spring there is an ancient inscription on the rock dedicated to Zeus as protector of flocks.

Up top there is nothing built: rocks, scrub and a view that, in clear air, takes in half the island and the surrounding Cyclades.

The routes

There are two ways up, and both can be joined in a circuit.

• From the Aria spring (the most used). You set off from the spring, at the edge of the road from Filoti to the south, where there is room to leave the car. A paved path climbs in about 20 minutes to the cave. From there the path becomes rough and steep to the summit: a little over an hour's climb from the cave, about 2.5 km in all from the spring. Allow 2 h 30 to 3 h there and back by the same way.
• From the chapel of Agia Marina. It is the gentler side, the one described as easier. The path climbs past the Levgasa spring to the summit.
• The circuit from Filoti (path 2). Official path number 2 leaves from the east of Filoti, climbs via Agia Marina and Levgasa to the summit, descends via the Zas cave and the Aria spring and returns to the village; the last stretch goes along the Kalantos road. It is about 9.2 km and about 4 hours, according to Discover Greece; other sources say 10 km and up to 5 hours.

Difficulty and waymarking

It is a moderate route. The stretch from the spring to the cave is easy. From the cave to the summit the path is stony, steep and, according to the Naxos tourism website, in places it gets lost: follow the stone cairns and red marks, and have the route downloaded on your phone. The descent from the summit by the other side is also steep. Wear mountain boots or trainers with a good sole; not sandals.

Water, shade and season

Along the whole route there is no shade except beside the springs. The reliable water is at the Aria spring, in the shade of an old plane tree; on the circuit there are also springs at Levgasa and Katafygi, but in summer they can be scarce. Carry at least a litre and a half per person.

The best time is from March to June and from September to November. In July and August set out at dawn or don't climb: the sun is fierce and the meltemi blows very strongly on the summit. In winter there can be fog and rain; if the summit is covered, stay at the cave and turn back.

With children or a dog

With older children who walk well, the climb to the cave is a good short excursion: about 20 minutes, with a reward at the end. We recommend the summit for teenagers and adults. Bring a torch to peer into the cave. You can go with a dog, but there are loose goats on the slope: keep it on a lead.

How to get to Filoti

Filoti is 19 km from the Chora. The KTEL bus takes about 35 minutes and the ticket costs €2.60; ask at the Chora station whether it stops near the Aria spring or you will have to walk from the village. With a hire car it is easier to start early. On the way back, Halki is a few kilometres away, with its galaktoboureko kafeneio.