Swimming in Limeni bay

What it is

Limeni is the port of Areopoli: a hamlet of stone houses built beside the water, in a bay on the west coast of central Mani, about 5 km by road from the town. The bay is the safest natural harbour on Mani's west coast, and it shows in the water: sheltered, very clear and deep almost from the shore. It is not a sandy beach. You swim from the rocks and jetties of the village, with the water quickly covering you. It is a swim for good swimmers and for mask and snorkel.

Limeni has been a declared traditional settlement since 1978 and has barely a dozen permanent residents.

What you see

Petrobey's palace. A little above the houses on the quay is the so-called palace of Petros Mavromichalis, Petrobey, the last bey of Mani, the family that dominated Areopoli and made Limeni grow from 1770. It is an elongated building, 5.5 by 17 m, with a gabled roof and its facade to the sea, and a four-storey tower at its south end. It is simple, but its size and quality set it apart from the other houses of the time.

The defences. In the bay there is a round bastion and fortified caves in the cliffs, the so-called refuges.

The monastery. At the north end are the ruins of the monastery of the Panagia Evretria or Vreti, with a building of megalithic architecture, and the church and the three-storey tower, from the first half of the 18th century.

The bay. Opposite you have Karavostasi, the port of Itylo, and the mountains falling to the Gulf of Messenia.

Getting there and parking

By car, drive down from Areopoli on the coast road towards Itylo and Kalamata: Limeni lies below, beside the water. There is little parking in the hamlet and the road is narrow: in summer, go early or park where you will not obstruct and walk. Without a car, from the Areopoli KTEL stop it is about 5 km of winding road.

Swimming and safety

The water deepens at once and there is no shallow area. If you go with small children who do not swim, a long sandy beach is better, such as Mavrovouni, beside Gytheio. Watch out for the boats in the port: swim away from the mooring area. With a ground swell, getting in and out over the rocks gets harder; choose another day.

When to go

For swimming, June to October. The bay faces west: at sunset the sun drops over the water and it is the classic time to swim and stay for dinner. Early in the morning there is more room on the rocks.

Eating and sleeping

The Limeni Village restaurant, of the tower hotel above the bay, serves home cooking. Sleeping at the Limeni Village, 4 km from Areopoli, leaves the bay beneath you. For the day, combine the swim with the old town of Areopoli and the Diros caves.