Paleokastritsa caves and coves by boat

What it is

The Paleokastritsa coast, in western Corfu, is a succession of cliffs, caves and small coves, and many can only be reached by sea. Tradition places the land of the Phaeacians here, where Odysseus landed and met Nausicaa. To see it you have two options from Alipa harbour: a shared boat with a skipper that tours caves and beaches, or a boat you drive yourself without needing a licence.

The shared boat: caves and Porto Timoni

Seahorse Boat Rental, a company at Alipa harbour, runs a 4-hour outing for €50 per person on a boat shared with other passengers. The route, according to its website:

1. Saint Nicholas cave, seen from the boat.
2. Kastelli beach, with a stop for a swim.
3. Porto Timoni, the double beach at Afionas, with time to swim and rest.
4. The Blue Eye, a cave of very clear water.
5. Return to Alipa harbour.

The website also mentions a last stop at a quiet beach chosen according to the day's conditions; confirm when booking. The outing needs a minimum of 4 passengers: if it is not reached, it does not run and you are refunded or offered another service. The specific boat depends on availability.

Licence-free boat: the coves on your own

If you prefer to go at your own pace, the same company hires boats of up to 30 hp, which do not require a licence. You only need to be over 18 and carry ID or a passport. The 3-seaters, 4.30 m long, start from €100; the 6 to 8-seaters and over 30 hp start from €150 and do require a pleasure craft licence.

Fuel is not included. When booking you choose a fixed fuel rate or paying what you use when you return to the harbour. A deposit may be requested. All boats carry life jackets for adults and children, an anchor and a first-aid kit.

How to book and cancel

Book on Seahorse's website or by phone, on +30 693 722 6459; they answer from 8:00 to 23:00 online and by phone. In high season book in advance. To cancel, do so in writing at least three days beforehand; otherwise the full amount is charged, and there is a €20 handling fee. If bad weather forces the outing to be suspended, you are refunded or it is moved to another day.

Getting to Alipa

Alipa harbour is in the centre of Paleokastritsa, about 50 minutes by car from Corfu town. Without a car, the green KTEL bus goes from the town to Paleokastritsa in about 50 minutes for €2.80; timetables are on the green bus station page. If you sleep at the Camping Paleokastritsa, you are a short walk from the harbour.

When and what to bring

It is a swimming-season activity, from late spring to early autumn. Choose a calm-sea day: in a swell, the company may change the route or suspend the outing, and in a small boat it is very noticeable.

Wear swimwear, and bring a towel, water-resistant sun cream, a hat, water and something to eat. A diving mask gets a lot out of the water in the caves. For the camera, a waterproof case.

With children

The shared boat is the comfortable option for families: there is a skipper and children's life jackets. On the licence-free boat, you are the skipper: do not go far from the coast and turn back if the wind rises.

Before or after

Climb to the Paleokastritsa monastery, of 1225, at the top of the peninsula, with a small museum. And if you have time left, the Angelokastro castle is a few minutes by car, above Krini.