Filopappou Hill at sunset

What it is and what you see

Filopappou Hill is the pine-covered rise directly opposite the Acropolis, to the south-west. The ancients called it the Hill of the Muses (Mouseion). At the top is the monument that gives it its name: the tomb of Gaius Julius Antiochus Philopappos, a prince of the kingdom of Commagene, in present-day Turkey, who lived in Athens, held Athenian citizenship and died in AD 116. His sister and the Athenians built the mausoleum after his death, and what remains is the curved marble facade with reliefs.

What brings you here is the view. From the summit you see the Parthenon head-on and almost at the same height, with the Propylaia and the whole west face of the rock. On the other side the city opens out to Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf, and to the north, Lycabettus. It is the most repeated photograph of the Acropolis, and the one that heads this page.

How to climb

The path starts from the pedestrian street Dionysiou Areopagitou, to the west, opposite the access that climbs towards the main entrance of the Acropolis. At the start you pass the small church of St Demetrios Loumbardiaris and enter the stone paths designed by the architect Dimitris Pikionis between 1954 and 1957: slabs of marble and stone laid by hand, steps and terraces with local plants. It is a work of architecture in itself, to be walked slowly.

From the street to the monument allow about 20 minutes at an easy pace, with a continuous but gentle climb. On the way there are forks and viewpoints: always keep going up and towards the monument, which can be seen from afar.

The nearest metro station is Akropoli, on line 2; from there you walk ten minutes along Dionysiou Areopagitou to the start of the path. There is no parking: come on foot.

When to go

At sunset, when the sun goes down behind the sea and the light falls on the west face of the Acropolis. At that hour quite a few people go up, but the summit is broad and there is always rock to sit on. First thing in the morning it also looks good and is almost empty. At midday in summer avoid the climb: the pines give shade on the path, but the summit is in the sun.

Price and facilities

It is free and there is no ticket office. There is no bar at the top and no drinking fountains to count on: bring water. There are no toilets on the summit either.

With children, pushchair and dog

With children it is an easy walk: the paths are wide and there are pines to rest under. Keep an eye on them at the top, because the rocks on the summit slope away. With a pushchair it is a struggle, because of the steps and uneven slabs; a baby carrier is better. With a dog, you can walk on a lead.

The polished stones of the path are slippery with smooth soles, and even more after rain. Wear shoes with grip and bring a torch or your phone if you are going down at night: the paths have little light.

Combine with

On the way down you have the Koukaki district and the tavernas of Dionysiou Areopagitou. If you are staying in the area, the Herodion Hotel and the Athens Backpackers hostel are ten minutes' walk from the start of the path.