Meissen, the porcelain town, on a bend of the Elbe.

Meissen is a small town in Saxony, on a bend of the Elbe, 25 km downriver from Dresden. Its name is a brand: Europe's first hard-paste porcelain was made here in 1710, the kind with the two crossed blue swords, and the manufactory is still at work at the foot of the old town. Above, on a hill over the river, Albrechtsburg Castle and the Gothic cathedral form one of the prettiest skylines in Germany. All around are vineyards: it is one of the northernmost wine regions in Europe.

For a traveller flying into Berlin, Meissen is the natural partner of Dresden: you can do it in a day from there, or chain it into a two- or three-night getaway. Directly from Berlin it is also possible, but the day becomes long.

What to see in Meissen

The porcelain manufactory. This is the visit that justifies the trip. In the demonstration workshop you watch the craftsmen turn, model figures and paint by hand, with an audio guide; afterwards, the museum shows three centuries of pieces. Entry €16, open every day.

Albrechtsburg Castle. The first German castle built as a residence, in the fifteenth century, and for a century and a half the secret porcelain factory of Augustus the Strong. The €12 ticket includes an augmented-reality tablet. Closed on Tuesdays.

The cathedral. Gothic, next to the castle, with the burial chapel of the princes of Saxony and a Cranach altarpiece. From April to October you can climb the towers on a guided visit.

The old town and the Frauenkirche. The Market Square, the Gothic town hall and the townspeople's church, with the world's first porcelain carillon.

With more time, a tasting at Proschwitz Castle, the organic winery on the right bank, and, from spring to autumn, the arrival from Dresden on the Elbe steamer.

How do you get there from Berlin and Dresden?

From Dresden, the S1 S-Bahn takes less than 40 minutes; get off at Meißen Altstadt, next to the old town. From the end of March to October you can go by boat: the L21 line leaves Dresden at 9:45 and reaches Meissen in about two and a quarter hours. The best plan is to go down by boat and return by train.

From Berlin, direct train to Dresden, between an hour and three quarters and two hours, and then the S1: about two and a half hours in total. It is a possible day trip if you leave early, but it is better to sleep in Dresden or Meissen.

By car, about 190 km along the A13 and the Elbe valley, a little over two hours from Berlin. In the old town you park in garages and public car parks; the cathedral square only admits cars from 17:00.

How much time do I need?

Half a day covers the manufactory and the castle; a full day lets you add the cathedral, the old town and an unhurried lunch. With a night, you add the Proschwitz winery and the view of the illuminated castle from the bridge.

Where to eat and sleep

On the hill, the Domkeller, the oldest tavern in the town, has a terrace over the rooftops; the Café am Dom, next door, is for coffee and cake. Below, the Ratskeller occupies the town hall and puts tables out on the square. All three open on Sundays. To sleep, the Romantik Hotel Burgkeller is next to the castle, with a spa; the Goldener Löwe is a house from 1657 two minutes from the Market; and among the vines, the Proschwitz Castle apartment, with a two-night minimum.

When to go

From April to October: the steamer sails, the terraces are open and the cathedral opens longer hours and lets you climb its towers. In September, the grape harvest and the wine festival fill the town. In winter everything opens fewer hours and the upper floors of the Albrechtsburg are unheated, but in Advent there is a Christmas market, concerts in the cathedral and fewer people.