Feldbergsteig, the Circuit of the Highest Peak in the Black Forest

What it is

The Feldbergsteig is a 12.4 km circular trail around and above the Feldberg, the highest peak in the Black Forest, at 1,493 m. It belongs to the region's Premium trail network, and the Hochschwarzwald tourist office classifies it as demanding: about 5 hours, 502 m of ascent and 520 m of descent. You pass through high pastures with views over the Black Forest and, in good weather, the Alps; mountain huts where you can eat; the glacial Lake Feldsee, at the foot of steep walls; and a protected forest where not a tree is cut.

The whole route lies within a protected natural area. That is why there are rules: follow the recommended direction of travel, keep dogs on a lead at all times, and do not swim in the Feldsee.

Where it starts and where to park

The start is in Feldberg-Ort, behind the Haus der Natur, the visitor centre of the protected area, at the Feldberg pass (1,260 m). Park in the Feldberg/Seebuck high-altitude car park, pay and display, next door. There are public toilets at the valley station of the Feldbergbahn cable car.

The route, step by step

1. From the Haus der Natur to the Bismarck monument. You begin by climbing the panoramic path to the Bismarck monument and the top station of the cable car, at 1,450 m. If you want to spare yourself this first climb, take the Feldbergbahn.
2. To the summit. You pass the Feldberg tower, cross the Grüble saddle and reach the summit, a bare hillside with open views.
3. The huts. You descend towards the St. Wilhelmer Hütte (or, as a variant, the Todtnauer Hütte), and continue past the Zastler Hütte and the Baldenweger Hütte, the latter with a good viewpoint.
4. To the Raimartihof and the Feldsee. Narrow paths and small bridges take you to the Raimartihof farm, which has been feeding people who come to the lake for over a century. The Feldsee is about 10 minutes away.
5. Return through the protected forest. You walk between the slopes of the Feldberg and the lake, enter the Bannwald and climb the Karl-Egon-Weg to the Haus der Natur.

The surface alternates between forest tracks and paths. The route is well signposted: follow the Feldbergsteig markers at every junction.

Difficulty, season and time

It is a long route with continuous ascents and descents, narrow stretches and pastures with livestock. You need to be fit and wear mountain footwear. It is not suitable for pushchairs or wheelchairs. With teenagers who like walking, it is fine; with small children, something shorter is better.

Do it when the ground is free of snow, from late spring to autumn. In winter the Feldberg is a ski resort and the route is under snow. The weather changes quickly up there: the summit is open, with no trees, and in fog or wind it is unpleasant. If the sky closes in or there is a storm, do not go up to the summit; from the Raimartihof you can return directly through the forest.

Water, food and shade

There is somewhere to stop almost all the way: the St. Wilhelmer Hütte, the Zastler Hütte, the Baldenweger Hütte, the Todtnauer Hütte, the Seebuck Hütte and the Raimartihof. Check beforehand that they are open on the day you go, because their hours change with the season. Carry water anyway. The upper section has no shade: a cap and sun cream in summer.

A short alternative

If the day does not stretch to 5 hours, take the Feldbergbahn up and do the accessible circuit of the summit, 5.8 km on a paved path. It is the option for going with a pushchair or with grandparents. And if you want a quieter route in the same area, the Ravenna Gorge from Hinterzarten is 7 km among mills and waterfalls.