The Emparis lakes, the Meije reflected in a lake at 2,400 m.

If you do only one long walk at La Grave, make it this one. The Plateau d'Emparis is a balcony of pasture hanging north of the Romanche, and from its lakes you see the whole north face of the Meije, 3,983 m high, with its glaciers, straight in front of you. In still air, Lac Noir reflects all of it.

The route

The park's route sheet starts from Le Chazelet station, at 1,770 m. You go down a little by the car park and, without entering the village, turn towards the foot of the lifts. You cross the Gâ torrent and climb the wide switchbacks of the GR54, which work up the whole east slope of the plateau. You pass some benches at 2,060 m, continue straight on along the GR54 under a ski lift, cross two streams and reach the Col du Souchet.

At the pass you take the second path, which passes a small lake, sometimes dry, and go down to Lac Noir. From its shore you continue east to Lac Lérié, go round it on the left and climb back to the pass. From there you return along the GR54 to Le Chazelet.

In total it is 16.3 km and 845 m of ascent, with the highest point at 2,445 m. The park estimates six hours and rates it as moderate.

What you need to know

The plateau is grazing land, and the park presents it that way on its route sheet. If you meet flocks, pass slowly and go round them without frightening the livestock. The park flags the area as sensitive for the golden eagle during the breeding season, from January to August, so do not leave the path.

Snow can remain on the pass well into June. The usual time to do it is July to September, setting out early to avoid the afternoon storms.

Getting to Le Chazelet

From the Col du Lautaret, go down the D1091 towards La Grave and, before the tunnel entrance, take the D33 on the left towards Le Chazelet. The park recommends the car park above the village. Without a car, the LER 35 bus from Grenoble to Briançon stops at La Grave, with booking on the Zou website; from La Grave you would have to walk up or take a taxi.