
Aux Vieux Remparts
Why we like it: 41-room hotel in the upper town of Provins, next to Place du Châtel, with a spa, a bistro open daily and free private parking.
Itinerary · 1 night
Saturday of shows and monuments, a night walk along the illuminated ramparts and Sunday of underground passages, the Rose Garden and home cooking. By train from Gare de l'Est.
Leaves from Paris · 1 h 15
Part of ProvinsChristmas markets of Europe
The plan
Designed to arrive on Saturday morning on line P and return on Sunday afternoon, from late March to early November. Buy the Provins Pass online: it lasts a year and lowers the price of the shows.
Saturday
Line P from Gare de l'Est and a twenty-minute uphill walk. Leave your suitcase at the hotel or in the tourist office's free left-luggage. A walk round the ramparts on the outside.
The audio guide to the Champagne fairs and the climb up the keep.
Bistrot Aux Vieux Remparts, open every day.
Les Aigles des Remparts and, at 15:45, La Légende des Chevaliers.
Dinner at the bistro and a stroll along the illuminated ramparts.
Sunday
The first run of the underground passages and down to the Rose Garden, in bloom from May to July.
Rosalie, in the lower town, is open at midday on Sunday. Then train to Paris.
In a day you can see Provins; by sleeping over, you enjoy it. When the day-trippers leave, the upper town falls silent, the ramparts light up and Caesar's Tower stands out illuminated. With one night everything fits without rushing: both shows, the Pass monuments and, on Sunday, the underground passages and the Rose Garden. All on foot from the line P station, an hour and a half from Paris.
| Hotel | Where | For whom |
|---|---|---|
| Aux Vieux Remparts | Upper town, next to the place du Châtel | Sleeping inside the walls, with spa |
| Le César Hôtel | Lower town, 900 m from the station | Coming and going by train with a suitcase |
| La Demeure des Vieux Bains | Between upper and lower town | A special night in medieval buildings |
Aux Vieux Remparts accepts dogs for a supplement and has free parking; Le César, private parking.
Between €170 and €300 per person with the train, one night in a hotel sharing a room, the Provins Pass, both shows and meals. The hotel weighs most.
Map
Plan the trip
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
How you travel
The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.
Provins has no airport: you fly to Paris, to Charles de Gaulle or Orly, which have direct flights from Madrid, Barcelona and many other Spanish cities, and arrive by train. Line P leaves from Gare de l'Est, next to Gare du Nord, where the RER B from Charles de Gaulle stops. From either airport, allow about two and a half hours; by hire car, a good hour and a quarter.
Provins works very well without a car. Line P comes direct from Gare de l'Est on the standard €2.55 ticket, and everything is done on foot. The only effort is the climb from the station to the upper town, twenty minutes; the little train helps within it.
By car, Provins is about 90 km from Paris, an hour and a quarter on the N4 and D619, and parking is easy. It makes sense if you are staying overnight and want to continue the next day towards Champagne or through the villages of the Provinois.
Where to stay
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Why we like it: 41-room hotel in the upper town of Provins, next to Place du Châtel, with a spa, a bistro open daily and free private parking.

Why we like it: Four-star designer hotel with 27 rooms opposite the church of Sainte-Croix, near the station, with a courtyard and private parking.

Why we like it: Guesthouse in 12th- to 18th-century buildings between the upper and lower towns, with five suites and rooms from €180, a garden and enclosed parking.
Services for this trip
Where to eat

What to order: the two- or three-course Plaisir menu, with seasonal cooking and local producers

What to order: the Rosalie menu of starter, main and dessert for €24.90, with the blackboard dishes

What to order: at lunchtime on weekdays, the €20.50 or €23.90 formula; in the evening, the salmon tataki or the bobun
Tips
Hotel and shows fill up in spring.
The Christmas medieval market weekend is special, but without equestrian shows.
Questions
Yes: the illuminated ramparts and the empty town at night are the best part of the trip.
No: line P runs from Gare de l'Est and everything is done on foot.
Inside the upper town, Aux Vieux Remparts; near the station, Le César.
Geocaliahttps://www.geocalia.com/en/france/ile-de-france/provins/itineraries/a-medieval-night-from-paris