
Hôtel du Cirque et de la Cascade
Why we like it: The hotel in the middle of the Cirque de Gavarnie, open since 1845, with rooms named after valley guides and the Grande Cascade opposite; reached on foot only.
Itinerary · 2 nights
Two nights at the foot of the rock wall that separates France from Ordesa: the path to the highest waterfall in France, lunch facing it and the cirques of Troumouse and Estaubé. Three hours from San Sebastián.
Leaves from San Sebastián · 3 hHuesca · 3 h 45Pamplona · 3 h 45
Part of Cirque de GavarniePyrenees
The plan
Designed for June to September, when the path is free of snow and the cirque restaurant and the hotels are open. Arrive in the village on Friday afternoon and sleep two nights there or at the campsite next door.
Friday
Three hours from San Sebastián, almost four from Huesca. Dinner in the village and check the report at the Gavarnie Valleys tourist office, which gives information on paths, snow and webcams.
Saturday
Set off walking before nine. The path follows the river along a wide, flat valley to the Hôtellerie du Cirque, a good hour with little climbing. From there, a stonier path leads to the foot of the Grande Cascade, where the spray reaches.
The Restaurant du Cirque, in the hotel that has stood in the middle of the cirque since 1845, has a terrace facing the Grande Cascade. It serves from 12:00 to 14:30, from May to September, and does not take bookings: arrive early. Trout or lamb from the Pays Toy.
By the same path. With small children, the way down or up can be done on horseback or by donkey with the valley's hirers, an hour each way.
Sunday
From Gèdre drive up the mountain road to the Maillet plateau and continue on foot, or on the little tractor-drawn train, to the back of the biggest of the three amphitheatres, at 2,100 metres.
If you have energy left, go up to Lake Gloriettes and walk a while towards Estaubé. If not, head back at leisure.
The Cirque de Gavarnie is a glacial amphitheatre with a 6.5 km perimeter and about 1,500 metres of wall, with the Grande Cascade falling down the back, the highest in France. On the other side of that wall is Ordesa: together they form the Pyrénées – Mont Perdu site, a World Heritage Site since 1997. There is no direct road from Aragon, so from Huesca you go round through the Bielsa tunnel, three hours forty; from San Sebastián, by Pau and Lourdes, it is three hours. The weekend combines the big cirque and the two small ones in the valley, with far fewer people.
From San Sebastián and Pamplona, via Pau, Lourdes and Luz-Saint-Sauveur. From Huesca and Zaragoza, via the Bielsa tunnel and Aragnouet, or via the Portalet. From June to September the path is free of snow; in June the waterfall carries more water and in July and August there are more people and horses on the path. The cirque restaurant and the Hôtel Le Marboré only open in season.
| Cirque | Path | For whom |
|---|---|---|
| Gavarnie | 3–4 h there and back to the waterfall | Everyone as far as the Hôtellerie; stony at the end |
| Troumouse | 2–3 h from the Maillet plateau | The biggest and with the fewest people |
| Estaubé | 3–4 h from Lake Gloriettes | The quietest, with marmots and flocks |
In the village, the two-star Hôtel Le Marboré is beside the path to the cirque, with a regional restaurant and a fireplace; it opens from 1 June to 30 September. Two minutes away, the Camping Le Pain de Sucre has 54 level pitches, mobile homes and chalets with a view of the cirque, and also opens in winter. To sleep inside the cirque, with the waterfall opposite, the Hôtel du Cirque et de la Cascade, open since 1845; you can only reach it on foot.
The Brèche de Roland, the gash at the top of the wall on the border with Ordesa, is a full-day high-mountain route, from July to September depending on the snow: do not improvise it. On foot, from the Bujaruelo valley you cross to Gavarnie by the Bujaruelo pass, the Port de Boucharo. In summer, with children from age 8 who can swim 25 metres, the Ossoue canyon has jumps that can be avoided by a path, from €50 with the Bureau des Guides de Cauterets.
Map
Plan the trip
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
How you travel
The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.
There is no direct road from Ordesa: from Aragon you go round through the Bielsa tunnel or the Portalet and climb via Lourdes and Luz-Saint-Sauveur. In the village you park and everything is done on foot. The car is useful for Troumouse and Estaubé.
Gavarnie is for walking: three cirques in one valley and the Brèche de Roland for those with experience. From Bujaruelo you cross on foot over the Port de Boucharo.
From Aragon and Navarre it is quicker to come by car. From the rest of Spain, flying to Toulouse, with direct flights from Madrid and other cities, leaves Gavarnie about three hours away by car; Tarbes-Lourdes is a little over an hour away. Without a car: train to Lourdes and the liO 965 bus.
Where to stay
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Why we like it: The hotel in the middle of the Cirque de Gavarnie, open since 1845, with rooms named after valley guides and the Grande Cascade opposite; reached on foot only.

Why we like it: Two-star hotel in the village of Gavarnie, next to the path to the cirque, with a regional restaurant, pub, fireplace and fitness area; June to September.

Why we like it: Three-star campsite two minutes from Gavarnie at 1,200 m, with 54 level pitches, mobile homes and chalets with a view of the cirque; open in summer and winter.
Services for this trip
Where to eat

What to order: Trout or Pays Toy lamb on the terrace, with the waterfall in front of you; to take away, a sandwich from Chez Moussu.
Tips
Set out walking before nine. By half past ten you are at the Hôtellerie with the light coming into the cirque, and before midday the path fills up.
October to May, unless you go with snowshoes and experience. The path has snow, there is avalanche risk and the restaurant and hotels in the cirque are closed.
Questions
About three hours via Pau and Lourdes. From Pamplona, about three hours and three quarters; from Huesca, three hours forty through the Bielsa tunnel.
By car there is no direct road: you go round via Bielsa or the Portalet. On foot, from Bujaruelo, over the Bujaruelo pass.
As far as the Hôtellerie du Cirque it is flat and families do it. The last stretch to the foot of the waterfall is stony.
Yes. Little ones can ride a donkey with an adult alongside, from Easter to All Saints.
Yes, with the train to Lourdes and the liO 965 bus to Gavarnie-Gèdre. For Troumouse and Estaubé you need a car.
Geocaliahttps://www.geocalia.com/en/france/cirque-de-gavarnie/itineraries/weekend-cirque-and-waterfall