Rastoke Mills, in Slunj

What it is

Rastoke is the mill district of Slunj, about 30 minutes by car north of Plitvice's Entrance 1 along the D1. It is built over the waterfalls where the Slunjčica river falls over the tufa and joins the Korana. The water forms leaps, rapids and small lakes among the houses, and for centuries it drove grain mills and fulling mills for cloth.

Written sources cite it from the 17th century, although it is believed to be earlier; most of the houses you see are from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. When it was protected, in 1962, it had 22 mills, 4 fulling mills, 7 vats for washing fibres and dyes and 28 houses. In 1969 it entered the register of cultural monuments.

What you see and what it costs

Walking along Rastoke's public street is free. What you pay for, €5, is the Vodene tajne route card: it includes the new bridge (Novi most), below the Jarebov mill, and the walkway that zigzags down into the Korana canyon. It is the part that gives views of the waterfalls from below.

The card is bought at the Slunj Town Council's online shop or at three automatic kiosks: at Entrance 1, at the start of the walkway; at Entrance 3, next to the St John bridge (Most sv. Ivana), and at the new bridge. The kiosks only accept cards, not cash. It can be bought at any time, and the walkway and street are open all year.

Some mills, restaurants and shops charge their own entry, and there are private houses that do not admit visits. Among those that open, the tourist website cites Slovin Unique Rastoke, closed on Tuesdays and in winter, and the OPG Jarebovi mlinovi farm, which is visited by arrangement by email.

How long

Allow one to two hours: a walk along the street, the descent to the canyon by the walkway and some time on the new bridge. If you have lunch there, half a day. The tourist website divides Slunj and Rastoke into five visiting zones, in case you want to extend through the town.

Getting there and parking

By car from Plitvice, follow the D1 towards Karlovac to Slunj. Parking is paid by the hour in three zones:

• Zone 1, Rastoke: €2 an hour, daily from 8:00 to 18:00.
• Zone 2, Gojka Šuška street: €0.40 an hour, Monday to Saturday from 8:00 to 18:00.
• Zone 3, Braće Radić street and Franje Tuđmana square: €0.40 an hour, daily from 8:00 to 18:00.

You pay at the parking meter, in cash or by card; payment by SMS only works with Croatian numbers. Zones 2 and 3 are further away, but cost a fifth.

The tourist information office is at Rastoke 2. It is open Monday to Thursday from 9:00 to 16:00 and Friday and Saturday from 10:00 to 16:00; closed on Sundays.

With children, a pushchair or a dog

The Vodene tajne walkway zigzags down into the canyon, so with babies bring a baby carrier rather than a pushchair. With children, watch them near the water: the waterfalls pass between the houses and next to the street. The tourist website gives no rules on dogs on the walkway; ask at the tourist office.

Where to sleep and what to combine

If you want to have dinner and sleep there, the Hotel Mirjana & Rastoke is in Slunj. On the way from the park you can stop at the Barać caves, in Rakovica.