Climbing Marjan via Vidilica to Telegrin

What it is

Marjan is the pine-covered hill that occupies the western end of the Split peninsula, right next to the old town. It is about 3.5 km long and 1.5 wide, some 340 hectares, half covered in pine. Locals have used it as a park since Antiquity, and in the 1950s it was replanted entirely and filled with paths. Its highest point, Telegrin, is at 178 m: from there you see the whole city, the islands of Brač, Šolta and Čiovo and, behind, the Kozjak and Mosor mountains. The name may come from an old optical telegraph of Napoleon's time, or from the Latin peregrinus, pilgrim.

The route, step by step

1. Varoš. You leave the Varoš district, west of the old town, and climb the stone stairs that scale the slope to the first high point.
2. Vidilica. The viewpoint at the end of the stairs, with the city and harbour in front. On the east slope, right above the city, is the old Jewish cemetery, founded in 1573, with more than 700 tombs. It is the point where many turn back.
3. Towards Telegrin. Continue along the forest paths, among pines, to the summit, at 178 m, with the great cross (hence it is also called Veli križ). At the top there is a 360-degree view.
4. Return. By the same path or going down the south side to the track that runs round the hill beside the sea.

Out and back from Varoš it is about two hours at an easy pace and 178 m of ascent, almost all in the first climb of stairs.

Variants

• With small children: climb as far as Vidilica and stay there, or continue along the park track to the church of St Nicholas, a small church of the early 13th century dedicated to the patron saint of fishermen.
• Longer: continue along the south-edge path another 2.5 km to the church of St Jerome, of the 15th century, with an altar by Andrija Aleši and hermit caves dug into the cliff just above.
• With a swim: at the foot of Marjan, on the south side, are the beaches of Kašjuni and Bene.

Difficulty

Easy, although the stairs at the start are noticeable. Higher up the paths are earth and stone, with the odd steep stretch. Wear closed shoes.

Water, shade and heat

The pine wood gives shade on much of the route, but the Varoš stairs are in the sun. In summer avoid midday: go up first thing or in the last hour of light, when the view from Telegrin is clearest. Bring water: do not count on fountains on the paths.

Signposting

The park is full of crossing paths. Carry a map on your phone: the hill is small and surrounded by city and sea, so it is hard to get completely lost, but easy to take the wrong way down.

With a dog

It is a common walk with a dog. Keep it on a lead on the stairs and at the viewpoints, where there are people.

Afterwards

On the way down, in Varoš you have Buffet Fife, a simple dining room of homely Dalmatian cooking on Trumbićeva obala. For a swim on sand, cross the city to Bačvice beach.