Stari Grad Plain: a 17 km Loop from the Harbour

What it is

The Stari Grad plain (Starogradsko polje) is the farmland that stretches between Stari Grad and Vrboska, in the centre of the island. It measures about 6 km long by 2 wide, 1,376 hectares, and is the largest fertile plain of all the Adriatic islands. The Greeks of Paros founded the colony of Pharos here in 385–384 BC and divided the land into rectangular plots with dry-stone walls and straight paths. That division is still in use: it is the best-preserved land division of ancient Greece in the Mediterranean, and since 2008 it has been a World Heritage site together with the old town of Stari Grad.

What you see as you walk are dry-stone walls following lines 2,400 years old, olive trees and vines in the plots, stone huts for storing tools (the trimi) and cisterns to collect rainwater. On the northern edge is the Dračevica pond, the only surface water source, which almost never dries up.

The route

Dalmatia Tourism proposes a circular themed route, Following change through the centuries, which leaves Stari Grad harbour and returns to it:

• Distance: 17 km.
• Time: about 4 hours on foot.
• Difficulty: medium.
• Surface: 14 km of gravel track and 3 km of asphalt.
• Altitude: from 1 m at the shore to 264 m at the highest point.

It follows the straight farm tracks that divide the plots, among walls and stone huts, and climbs to the heights on the edge of the plain, from where the grid can be understood. The track can be downloaded from the Dalmatia Tourism website (dalmatia.hr); carry it on your phone, because the tracks cross and look very alike.

On foot or by bike

By mountain or gravel bike the route is done in half the time and is more enjoyable: the tracks are flat for almost the whole route. Hvar Tourism also signposts two numbered cycle routes that cross the plain: the 704, Following UNESCO, from Jelsa through Vrboska, the plain, Dol and Vrbanj, and the 705, Along the Dračevica, a circuit from Vrboska. In Hvar town, Hvar Adventure organises self-guided routes with a bike and GPS.

When to go

From March to June and from September to November. In spring the fields are green and in September it is the grape harvest. In July and August there is no shade on the whole route except for the odd olive tree: set out at dawn or leave the route for another season.

Water, shade and safety

There are no fountains or bars on the plain. Bring at least a litre and a half of water per person, a hat and sun cream. The plots are private farms in use: walk on the tracks and do not enter the vineyards or pick fruit. Farmers' tractors and cars use the tracks.

With children or a dog

With children who walk, do just an out-and-back stretch from Stari Grad; the 17 km are too much for them on foot. By bike, from about age 10 if they are used to it. With a dog, on a lead and with water for it.

Getting to Stari Grad

The Jadrolinija ferry from Split arrives at Stari Grad, and the island bus links it with Hvar town and Jelsa. To sleep next to the route, Valamar Amicor is in Stari Grad.