Pakleni Islands by Water Taxi: Jerolim and Palmižana

What they are

The Pakleni are the string of wooded islets that close off Hvar harbour to the south-west. They have been protected as a landscape of special value (značajni krajobraz) since 1972 and are managed by the public body More i krš. There are almost no houses: pine wood, white rock, coves of very clear water and a few restaurants beside the landing stages. From Hvar town, it is the closest car-free beach day.

How to get there

By water taxi from Hvar harbour: the town's tourist office estimates a crossing of 10 to 15 minutes. The boats leave the quay throughout the morning and each announces its destination (Palmižana, Jerolim, Mlini…) and the return time. The price is set by each boatman; ask and pay before boarding, and confirm the time of the last return, which in June and September is earlier than in July and August.

If you have a boating licence, you can hire a small boat in the harbour and move around the islands at your own pace: see bike and boat hire.

Which island to choose

• Palmižana (Sveti Klement). The best known and best equipped. Vinogradišće bay has a shallow shore of sand and shingle, the closest thing to a sandy beach near Hvar, surrounded by pines and exotic plants, with restaurants, beach bars and trails. For lunch, the Meneghello Restaurant is open from morning to night. It is the easiest with small children.
• Marinkovac: Mlini and Ždrilca. Two bays linked by a short path, of pebbles and turquoise water, with pine shade. Very busy in season.
• Jerolim. The closest to the harbour. Beaches of rock and stone with pine wood giving shade all day. It is traditionally Hvar's naturist island, although it welcomes everyone.

What to bring

Water shoes (almost everything is rock or stone), a parasol if you go to Jerolim or open rocks, water, sun cream and snorkelling gear: the seabed is full of life. On Palmižana and Marinkovac there is somewhere to eat and drink; in the more remote coves, no.

When to go

From May to September, which is when water taxis run regularly. In July and August the most famous coves fill with anchored boats from midday: set out early. In June and September the water is warm and there are fewer people.

Swimming safely

There are no lifeguards at all the coves. Watch out for boats entering and leaving the bays: swim close to the shore or within the buoyed areas. There are sea urchins on the rock; hence the water shoes.

Other ways to see them

By kayak from Križna Luka, with a guide, you paddle to Jerolim and Marinkovac and stop to snorkel. From above, the Fortica gives you the view of the whole archipelago. And the speedboat excursion to the Blue Cave usually ends the day at Palmižana.