Hike up Srđ by the Zigzag Path

What it is

Srđ is the 412 m hill that rises behind the walled city. At the top are the great white stone cross, the Imperial fort and the upper station of the cable car. Besides the cabin and a narrow road that arrives from behind, you can go up on foot along a zigzag path, the serpentines, which starts on the coast road (the Adriatic Highway) above Ploče. It is the free way to earn the view of the whole city.

The route, step by step

1. To the start. From the Ploče gate climb through the streets and stairs of the district to the coast road, which passes above the city. The path leaves from the mountain side.
2. The bends. The path gains height in short loops up the south slope, with loose stone and the odd stretch of steps. Each bend opens the view a little more: first the rooftops of Ploče, then the whole wall and Lokrum.
3. The summit. You arrive beside the cross, rebuilt in 1997 after it was destroyed in the attacks of 1991, and a few steps from the Imperial fort and the cable-car station.

Allow an hour's climb at a good pace and about 330 m of ascent from the road. The descent by the same path takes somewhat less, but punishes the knees because of the loose stone.

Difficulty

It is short but steep and without a break. It requires no technique, but some fitness and shoes with a good sole; in sandals you slip. We do not recommend it to small children: from about age 12 and used to walking it is fine.

Shade, water and heat

The south slope burned several times in the second half of the 20th century and during the war, and hardly any trees remain: there is no shade along the whole route. Nor are there springs on the way. Bring at least a litre of water per person, a hat and sun cream. At the top you can refill your bottle at the fountain at the cable-car station, when it is open.

From October to May it is a good climb at any hour. In July and August set off at dawn or leave the climb for the last hours of the afternoon: at midday the stone gives back the heat and the route becomes hard.

At the top

Besides the view, you have the exhibition on the defence of the city in 1991–1995 inside the Imperial fort and the Panorama restaurant, next to the station. The cable car comes down in about three and a half minutes: the one-way ticket costs €17 for adults and €5 for children aged 4 to 12, and runs from April to November. From December to March, you walk down.

If the weather changes

In a storm, do not go up: the summit is exposed and the cable car stops in strong wind or risk of lightning, so do not count on it for coming down. With the bura, the cold north wind, the ridge becomes uncomfortable even in sunshine.

With a dog

The path is suitable for a dog on a lead, but in summer the stone burns and there is no water: carry its water and avoid the middle of the day.