Hotel Schloss Dürnstein
Why we like it: A five-star hotel in Dürnstein castle, above the Danube, with a terrace restaurant open to everyone, pools, a spa and bike hire. Closed in winter.
Duration2 nights
From Vienna1 h by train to Melk or Krems
Getting aroundBike, boat and the Wachau train
Best timeApril – October; July for the apricots
BringCycling clothes and a jacket
The plan
The plan, hour by hour
Designed for leaving Vienna by train on a Friday afternoon and returning on Sunday afternoon, from late April to early October, when the Dürnstein hotels are open, the boats sail and the Wachaubahn runs. No car at any point.
Friday
- 118:00Train to Melk and a night at the Post
You leave Vienna after work. Dinner at the Post's restaurant, which in high season serves the menu until 21:00.
Saturday
- 109:00Melk Abbey
First thing, before the groups: library, Marble Hall and church. €16.
- 211:00By bike from Melk to Dürnstein
Hire a bike in Melk and go down the Danube cycle path, about 30 km, almost flat, via Spitz and Weißenkirchen. Stop for lunch on the way.
- 317:00Arrival in Dürnstein
Leave the bike at the Richard Löwenherz and stroll the village at dusk, when the day visitors leave.
- 419:30Dinner at the Loibnerhof
A kilometre away, in Unterloiben: Krebsnudeln with Danube crayfish and Marillenbuchteln. Wednesday to Sunday.
Sunday
- 109:00Vogelbergsteig
The cable-protected climb above Dürnstein, with a view over the valley, if you like heights; if not, walk up to the castle ruin.
- 212:00Special lunch at the Landhaus Bacher
In Mautern, opposite Krems: two Michelin stars and a non-stop kitchen on Sunday from 11:30 to 19:00. Book.
- 316:00Return from Krems
Cross the bridge to Krems and take the train to Vienna. If you prefer, go back earlier by boat from Dürnstein to Krems.
In a day from Vienna the Wachau is seen; in two nights it is lived. The difference is the bike: 35 km almost flat beside the Danube among terraced vineyards, apricot orchards and winegrowers' villages, with time to stop at a Heuriger and sleep in Dürnstein, the prettiest village in the valley. All without a car: train out to Melk, bike downriver and boat or train back.
How do you get there from Vienna?
By train to Melk on the western line, in around an hour. Until the end of October 2027 the central section of the S-Bahn is closed: check on ÖBB which Vienna station your train leaves from. From Melk station to the Hotel zur Post it is a few minutes on foot.
Where to sleep?
| Accommodation | Area | Who it is for |
|---|---|---|
| Hotel Restaurant zur Post | Centre of Melk | The first night, next to the abbey, with a bike cellar |
| Hotel Richard Löwenherz | Dürnstein, beside the river | The second night, with a summer pool and bikes for hire |
And if you have one more day?
Stay a third night in Krems and do the full boat trip from Krems to Melk, or add Baden and its baths on the way back to Vienna, on the Badner Bahn.
With children
The bike works with children from the time they can pedal alone: the path is flat, but it is 30 km; cut it at Spitz and continue on the Wachaubahn or by boat. The boat and the July apricots appeal to all ages. The Vogelbergsteig is not for small children.
Map
The stops, in order
What to do
Eat
88 €Stay
Services
Plan the trip
Wachau, step by step
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
When to go to Wachau
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Best timeGood timeLow season
How you travel
The same break, your way
The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.
Train, boat and bike along the Danube
The Wachau is one of the few valleys in Europe that can be done entirely without a car: a train from Vienna to Krems or Melk, a DDSG boat between the two ends, the Wachau train on the north bank in season and an almost flat cycle path beside the river. The only thing it asks is that you check timetables, because the boats and the Wachau train only run from spring to autumn.
110–180 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleeparte Hotel Krems, next to…
- Getting aroundRegional train Vienna – Krems…
- Where to eatThe Hotel zur Post restaurant…
- ServicesKrems station
Where to sleep
- arte Hotel Krems, next to the Campus-Kunstmeile halt
- Hotel Restaurant zur Post, in the centre of Melk, near the station
Getting around
- Regional train Vienna – Krems and Vienna – Melk
- DDSG boat Krems – Melk, about three hours upriver
- Wachaubahn Krems – Emmersdorf in season, with your bike on board
Where to eat
- The Hotel zur Post restaurant, in Melk, with a dish of the day
- Loibnerhof, beside the cycle path in Unterloiben
Services
- Krems station
- Wachaubahn
- Melk tourist office
The Danube by bike, from Melk to Krems
The Danube cycle path runs through the Wachau on both banks, almost flat, among vineyards and apricot orchards: from Melk to Krems it is about 35 km. The comfortable way is to go downriver with the current, west to east, and combine with the boat or the train so you do not have to pedal back.
100–170 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleepHotel Restaurant zur Post, in…
- Getting aroundDonauradweg, signposted on both banks
- Where to eatLoibnerhof, beside the path in…
- ServicesWachaubahn, to return to the…
Where to sleep
- Hotel Restaurant zur Post, in Melk, with a bike store and charging for e-bikes
- Hotel Richard Löwenherz, in Dürnstein, which hires out bikes and e-bikes
- arte Hotel Krems, with a bike cage in the garage
Getting around
- Donauradweg, signposted on both banks
- DDSG boat with your bike on board (€3 per bike, paid at the landing stage)
- Wachaubahn with bikes in season
Where to eat
- Loibnerhof, beside the path in Unterloiben
- Marillenknödel and Heurigen on the way in summer
Services
- Wachaubahn, to return to the starting point
- Melk tourist office
By car on both banks
By car you travel along both banks and reach the Heurigen and viewpoints that are far from the boat stops. The valley has a road on each bank and bridges at Krems-Mautern and Melk, and small ferries at Spitz, Weißenkirchen and Dürnstein. Watch out for Dürnstein: you cannot park in the village.
120–200 €per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleepHotel Schloss Dürnstein, with parking…
- Getting aroundNorth-bank roads (Krems – Spitz…
- Where to eatLandhaus Bacher, in Mautern
- ServicesMelk tourist office
Where to sleep
- Hotel Schloss Dürnstein, with parking inside the grounds
- Hotel Richard Löwenherz, with car access through the pedestrian zone
- arte Hotel Krems, with a garage
Getting around
- North-bank roads (Krems – Spitz – Emmersdorf) and south-bank (Mautern – Melk)
- Park at the entrance to Dürnstein and walk in
- To drink at a Heuriger, leave the car and return by train or taxi
Where to eat
- Landhaus Bacher, in Mautern
- Loibnerhof, with parking and chargers
Services
- Melk tourist office
A castle by the river and two stars
The Wachau offers a luxury weekend without ostentation: sleeping in Dürnstein castle or in Richard the Lionheart's former convent, eating at the Landhaus Bacher and spending the afternoon on the terrace over the Danube with a riesling or a grüner veltliner from the valley. It works from late March to October, when the seasonal hotels are open.
From €350per person per day, approximate
- Where to sleepHotel Schloss Dürnstein, five stars…
- Getting aroundOwn or hire car, or…
- Where to eatLandhaus Bacher, two Michelin stars
- ServicesTasting at the Domäne Wachau…
Where to sleep
- Hotel Schloss Dürnstein, five stars, with pools and a spa
- Hotel Richard Löwenherz, four stars, with a summer pool
Getting around
- Own or hire car, or taxi from Krems
- DDSG boat to see the valley from the water
Where to eat
- Landhaus Bacher, two Michelin stars
- The Schloss Dürnstein terrace, open to everyone
Services
- Tasting at the Domäne Wachau, in Dürnstein
Fly to Vienna and take a train or drive to the Wachau
The Wachau has no airport: you fly to Vienna-Schwechat (VIE), which has direct flights from Madrid, Barcelona and other Spanish cities. From the airport it is a little over an hour by motorway to Krems or Melk. Without a car, you go first to the centre of Vienna and continue by regional train to Krems, at the eastern end of the valley, or to Melk, in the west.
- Getting thereVienna-Schwechat (VIE), about 90 km…
- Getting aroundHire car at the airport…
- Where to sleeparte Hotel Krems, if you…
- ServicesKrems station, with regional trains…
Getting there
- Vienna-Schwechat (VIE), about 90 km from Krems and about 110 km from Melk
- From the airport to the centre, the CAT runs by coach to Wien Mitte until October 2027, because of the S-Bahn works
- Regional trains from Vienna to Krems and to Melk; check on ÖBB the departure station while the closure of the central S-Bahn stretch lasts
Getting around
- Hire car at the airport if you want to move between villages and Heurigen at your own pace
- Without a car: DDSG boat between Krems and Melk, Wachaubahn on the north bank in season and bike on the Danube path
- Bikes can go on the boat and the Wachau train
Where to sleep
- arte Hotel Krems, if you arrive by train from Vienna
- Hotel Restaurant zur Post, in Melk, to start with the abbey
- Hotel Schloss Dürnstein, for a special arrival in season
Services
- Krems station, with regional trains to Vienna
- Melk tourist office
How much does it cost?
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Where to stay
Where to stay without a carif you're cyclingif you're drivingin styleif you're flying
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Hotel Richard Löwenherz
Why we like it: A four-star hotel in a former convent in Dürnstein, on the Danube bank, with a garden, a pool from May to September, bike hire and dogs admitted.
Hotel Restaurant zur Post
Why we like it: A family hotel in the centre of Melk, a few minutes from the abbey and the station, with a bike store with electric charging, a garden and a restaurant. Good for starting the Wachau in the…
arte Hotel Krems
Why we like it: An urban hotel in Krems, next to the museums of the Kunstmeile and the campus, with a garage, a bike cage with charging and a gym. Practical if you arrive by train or by car from…
Services for this trip
Where to eat
Where to eat in Wachau
Loibnerhof
What to order: the Krebsnudeln (pasta with Danube crayfish), the pan-fried veal schnitzel and, for dessert, the Marillenbuchteln or the Topfenknödel with apricot.
Wednesday to Sunday · Closed Monday and Tuesday · Continuous kitchen at midday
Landhaus Bacher
What to order: the long menu if it is the special meal of your trip; at midday from Thursday to Saturday there is a shorter midday table. Ask for the pairing with Wachau wines.
Thursday to Sunday at midday and Wednesday to Saturday in the evening · Closed from 1 January to 4 March 2027
Hotel zur Post restaurant
What to order: the Mittagsteller (midday dish of the day) or a schnitzel; in autumn, the goose, and for dessert something with apricot.
Closed Monday · In high season, Tuesday to Sunday at midday, afternoon and evening
Tips
Worth knowing first
Local tip
Book the two hotels and the Landhaus Bacher at the same time: on a high-season weekend they fill up.
We'd skip it
November to March: the Dürnstein hotels close, there are no boats or Wachau train and bike hire stops.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
How many kilometres is it by bike?
About 30 from Melk to Dürnstein and 35 to Krems, almost flat and downriver.
Do I need a car?
No: train to Melk, bike, and train or boat back from Krems.
When is it best?
From late April to early October; July for the apricots, September for the grape harvest.
Can it be done the other way round?
Yes, from Krems to Melk, but upriver: better by boat than by bike.