# Collegiate Church of San Salvador de Cantamuda

What to do en Aguilar de Campoo and the Romanesque of Palencia · Aguilar de Campoo and the Romanesque of Palencia

Fuente: https://www.geocalia.com/en/spain/castile-and-leon/aguilar-de-campoo/things-to-do/san-salvador-de-cantamuda · Revisado: 2026-11-12

- Duración: 30 min
- Temporada: All year
- Para quién: For Romanesque enthusiasts

Mountain Romanesque with a monumental bell gable in La Pernía, on the way to the Piedrasluengas pass · 30 min · €2

About 40 minutes from Aguilar, in the municipality of La Pernía, the former collegiate church of San Salvador de Cantamuda has one of the largest bell gables in Romanesque architecture, outlined against the mountain. It stands apart from the village, among meadows, and that is precisely why it can be seen whole from outside, with no houses in front. It is the most mountain-flavoured stop on Palencia's northern Romanesque and lies on the way to the Piedrasluengas pass.
What you see
First is the bell gable, raised on the west facade as a single piece with the wall. It has two tiers with paired openings for the bells, each under a semicircular arch on small columns, and is topped by a triangular gable. Spain.info counts it among the most beautiful in Spanish Romanesque. The church has two doorways with simple pointed arches; the main one is protected by a modern porch.
Inside, it is a church with a single nave, a transept and three semicircular apses, the central one much larger than the side ones, and a deep presbytery. According to the Junta, it is a singular plan within Palencia's Romanesque, as are its vaults: the transept is covered with a rib vault with French-style webbing and the central apse is gadrooned. Look also at the corbels that hold up the eaves, with plant motifs, seated figures, balls, scrolls and animal heads, and at the altar slabs on columns. In 1123 the church became a monastery.
Opening hours and entry
According to the resource sheet from the Junta's tourist office in Palencia, updated in early November 2026, it opens Monday to Saturday from 11:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 19:00, and on Sunday from 11:00 to 14:00. Entry costs €2. Phones: 979 879 028 and 626 598 193. The Turismo de Castilla y León listing adds that in winter it closes from 9 December to 28 January; on those dates, and outside hours, a visit is requested at least 48 hours in advance on 616 520 509, the booking phone for the northern Romanesque. The address is calle Rollo, s/n, in San Salvador de Cantamuda.
Allow half an hour for the visit, a little more if you want to walk around the outside of the church to see the apses and corbels.
Getting there and what to combine
You get there by car, in about 40 minutes from Aguilar. It is a half-day outing that combines well with the European bison reserve in San Cebrián de Mudá, which is on the way: if you do the bison first thing, you reach the collegiate church mid-morning, within opening hours.
If you are interested in the region's Romanesque, in Aguilar you can first see the models at the monastery of Santa María la Real and, on the way back, the rock-cut hermitage of Olleros or Santa María de Mave. The opening hours of all the churches in the area are on the page for Romanesque visits and at the Aguilar tourist office.

## Cómo llegar y contacto

- Coordenadas: 42.9667, -4.4954

## Cerca de aquí

- [European Bison Reserve in San Cebrián de Mudá](https://www.geocalia.com/en/spain/castile-and-leon/aguilar-de-campoo/things-to-do/european-bison-reserve), a 12.1 km
- [Goina Hostel, in San Cebrián de Mudá](https://www.geocalia.com/en/spain/castile-and-leon/aguilar-de-campoo/where-to-stay/goina-hostel), a 12.1 km

Destino: [Aguilar de Campoo and the Romanesque of Palencia](https://www.geocalia.com/en/spain/castile-and-leon/aguilar-de-campoo.md)
