# La Alpujarra

Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira stepped up the Poqueira gorge, bridle paths and Mulhacén in view, an hour and a quarter from Granada.

Fuente: https://www.geocalia.com/en/spain/andalusia/la-alpujarra · Revisado: 2026-11-12

La Alpujarra is the south face of Sierra Nevada: a district of deep valleys that drop from the three-thousand-metre peaks towards the sea, with villages of white flat-roofed houses, chimneys and tinaos, terraces watered by irrigation channels and bridle paths that join them. This guide focuses on its most visited and easiest part, the Poqueira gorge, with Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira one above the other, and adds Trevélez, the ham village, in the next valley. The Junta describes the gorge and its three villages as one of the landscapes with the most personality in Andalucía. You come to walk, to eat spoon dishes and to look at the sierra.

## How do I get there from Granada, Málaga or Almería?

From Granada, the A-44 motorway towards Motril, the Lanjarón exit and the Órgiva road to Pampaneira, along the A-4132: a little over an hour, the last half hour on bends. Bubión and Capileira continue along the A-4129, five and ten minutes further up. From Málaga, about two hours along the A-7 towards Motril and the climb via Órgiva; from Almería, also about two hours along the A-7. These are estimated times.

You can also get there without a car: Alsa links Granada with the three villages and Capileira with Trevélez. According to Capileira town council, the morning bus leaves Capileira at 7:15 and reaches Granada at 9:15, with return journeys in the afternoon. Check the timetables with Alsa before going, especially on Sundays.

## Where do I park?

You do not drive through the villages: their streets are narrow slopes and steps. In Pampaneira there is a municipal car park at the entrance; in Capileira, the La Cebadilla trail has a car park of about 45 spaces in the upper part. In Trevélez, the Hotel La Fragua asks you not to follow the GPS into the village and to leave the car in the public car park at the entrance or in the Plaza del Barrio Medio. On spring and autumn weekends, arrive before eleven.

## How much time do I need?

One day covers the three villages: the circular PR-A 70 trail joins them in 9.4 km and three and a half hours, or you drive from one to the next, stopping at each. With two nights you add La Cebadilla, the Poqueira valley from the inside, and Trevélez. With three, and between summer and autumn, Mulhacén: from Capileira, the National Park minibus goes up to the Alto del Chorrillo, at about 2,700 metres, and from there to the summit is five to six hours there and back.

## When to go?

Spring and autumn are the best seasons: the countryside is green in May, the irrigation channels run with water and in November the chestnut trees turn yellow. In summer you walk early, because the slope faces south and has little shade; it is the season of the high-peaks minibus and of Mulhacén. In winter the gorge is quiet and beautiful, but cold: Capileira is at almost 1,500 metres and it can snow. Some restaurants close from January to March, such as the one at La Fragua in Trevélez.

## Where to sleep?

Pampaneira is the simple, well-connected base: the Hostal Pampaneira, with 15 rooms, is at the entrance, with its Casa Alfonso restaurant and a room for bicycles. Capileira is the base for walking: the Hotel Rural Finca Los Llanos has 44 rooms, a seasonal pool above the gorge and its own restaurant. Trevélez is for those who want to sleep higher and further away: the two buildings of La Fragua share a pool with views and parking.

## What to eat

Alpujarran cooking is mountain food: the plato alpujarreño, with patatas a lo pobre, egg, peppers and cured meats; stews such as the gitanilla or the chickpea potage, and Trevélez ham. At Casa Alfonso the potatoes and peppers come from their own vegetable garden and the eggs from their own hens.

## Dónde está
- Cerca: Sierra Nevada (Pradollano) (a 16.6 km), Guadix (a 43.7 km), Priego de Córdoba and the Subbética (a 92.0 km), Antequera (a 107.2 km)

## Qué hacer
- **Poqueira Villages Trail (PR-A 70)** (3 h 30 · 9.4 km · Regular walkers; teenagers · On your own · free): The Poqueira villages trail links on foot the three villages of the gorge, Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira, along the old paths that connected them, going down to the river twice. It is circular, 9.4 km, estimated at three and a half hours, and the Junta rates it medium difficulty, with 380 metres of height difference between 1,008 and 1,388 metres. It goes along paths, streets and a stretch of road, among terraces, irrigation channels and chestnut trees, and it is the best way to understand how this landscape was built.
From Pampaneira to Capileira via Bubión
You start in the upper part of Pampaneira, on the old path to Bubión. There is no parking at the start: Pampaneira's municipal car park is the option. As soon as you set out you see the grey terraos of the village, the flat roofs waterproofed with a grey clay earth. After about 400 metres you cross an irrigation channel and after about 600 the Cerezo ravine. At the kilometre you reach Bubión's Barrio Hondo.
From Bubión the path keeps climbing among fruit terraces until it crosses the Tejar ravine by a bridge, some 700 metres further on, and leaves the dense vegetation for a steeper slope, among water tanks, farmhouses and old chestnut trees. After another ravine, a turn-off on the right begins the last 800 metres of steep climb to Capileira.
Return by the river
From Capileira you go back towards Bubión, skirt it below at the level of the sports centre and descend to the Puente Chiscal to cross the Poqueira. On the other slope, the path climbs gently, crosses the Rosas ravine, passes an oak that marks a junction and descends among oaks to the ruins of a farmhouse. The last stretch of descent is loose stone, so take care, to the river, opposite the ruins of an old flour mill. You cross by a bridge and return to Pampaneira.
Before setting out
There is little shade: take water, check that the springs are drinkable and wear mountain footwear, because there are stepped and uneven stretches. No authorisation is needed. If you don't want to do the full circuit, the outward stretch between the three villages already gives the idea, and you can return on the regular bus, which runs along the road; the timetables are on the sheet for the Alsa bus from Granada.
The route is the centrepiece of the Sunday around the three Poqueira villages on foot. To eat at the start or the end, Casa Alfonso is at the entrance to Pampaneira; to sleep next to the start, the Hostal Pampaneira, on the same avenue.
- **La Cebadilla Trail, from Capileira (PR-A 69)** (4 h · 7.5 km · Hikers and teenagers · On your own · free): The La Cebadilla trail leaves Capileira, the highest village in the Poqueira gorge, descends to the hamlet of the river's hydroelectric power station and returns by the other slope. It is circular, 7.5 km, estimated at about four hours, and the Junta rates it medium difficulty, with a maximum height difference of 315 metres between 1,290 and 1,605 metres. It is the way to see the gorge from the inside, among terraces, farmhouses, irrigation channels and pools.
By mule track to the power station
You start in the upper part of Capileira, the Castillo district, where the path to La Cebadilla begins; at the start there is a car park of about 45 spaces. The first stretch is the steepest and is cobbled, like the mule tracks made for pack animals. You gain height quickly over the terraced slopes, with Sierra Lújar to the south and the high peaks to the north. The path reaches the Los Lugares irrigation channel, follows it for a while and climbs to the La Cebadilla track, which you take to the left for a kilometre.
The old power station hamlet is almost abandoned, in a narrow, shady corner. The power station, which is still working, stands a little higher up, at 1,540 metres, where the Toril and Naute rivers meet to form the Poqueira.
Return by the other slope
At La Cebadilla you cross the river by a bridge and climb about 600 metres along a narrow track to the Abuchite farmhouse, at the first sharp bend; there a wooden marker shows the return path. It descends gently for about two kilometres among farmhouses and terraces to the Prado Largo ravine and the Poqueira river, where there is a cool poplar grove and pools. You cross by the Abuchite bridge and climb the other side towards Capileira. Just before entering the village, on the right, are the Aldeire threshing floors, turned into a viewpoint over the gorge and the peaks.
Before setting out
There is little shade except beside the river. Take water and check that the springs are drinkable, and shoes with a firm sole for the cobbles. No authorisation is needed.
If you still feel like walking, the Poqueira villages trail links Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira. Before or after, explore the streets of Capileira and its museum. To sleep next to the start, the Hotel Finca Los Llanos is at the entrance to Capileira.
- **Capileira: Streets, Tinaos and the Pedro Antonio de Alarcón House-Museum** (1 h 30 · Families · Ask at the museum): Capileira is the last and highest of the three villages of the Poqueira gorge, at almost 1,500 metres, in the Alpujarra of Granada. Its old town is declared a historic-artistic site. The streets drop steeply between whitewashed houses with flat terrao roofs and pass beneath the tinaos, the covered passages between houses that form another street underneath. In an hour and a half you see the village, the church and the museum; with more time, it is the starting point for routes into the high mountains.
The writer's house and Alpujarran customs
The Pedro Antonio de Alarcón House-Museum is the village's museum of folk arts and customs. It occupies a former manor house owned by the town council and is named after the 19th-century writer from Granada who travelled through the Alpujarra and recounted it in a travel book. It recreates an Alpujarran house with household items, crafts, textiles and farming tools, and keeps 17th-century carvings and lithographs from the time of Alarcón's journey. According to the information published by the Finca Los Llanos hotel, it opens from 11:00 to 14:30 except Mondays; the town council publishes neither hours nor price, so confirm on 958 76 30 51, Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 14:00.
Santa María de la Cabeza
The parish church was built in the 18th century on a church of 1502 that had replaced the old mosque. It holds a 17th-century wooden Baroque altarpiece and an image of the Virgen de la Cabeza which, according to the tradition recorded by the town council, was donated by the Catholic Monarchs. It can be visited Wednesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 19:00, until 21:00 in summer. For groups, there is a phone number for visits: 698 454 085.
Through the streets from top to bottom
The village is explored going downhill: from the upper part, where the paths to the mountain start, to the oldest neighbourhoods. From the viewpoints you see Bubión and Pampaneira down the gorge and, to the north, the south face of the Veleta. It is not a walk for a pushchair: a baby carrier is better.
Higher than Capileira
Capileira is the departure village for the High Peaks minibus, which runs in summer and autumn up to the Alto del Chorrillo, and for the climb up Mulhacén. On foot, the Cebadilla trail descends from the upper district to the Poqueira river, and the Poqueira villages trail links the three villages. To eat, down the gorge, Casa Alfonso is at the entrance to Pampaneira.
- **A Walk around Pampaneira** (1 h · Families · Free): Pampaneira is the first of the three villages of the Poqueira gorge and the lowest, at the entrance to the valley. Its little streets climb steeply between whitewashed houses with Alpujarran chimneys and pass beneath tinaos. From the upper part of the village you see the Sierra Nevada peaks on one side and the gorge on the other. It belongs to the association of Los Pueblos más Bonitos de España (The Most Beautiful Villages of Spain).
What you will see
The centre is the Plaza de la Libertad, presided over by the parish church of Santa Cruz, from the 16th century. It has a rectangular plan and a Mudéjar coffered ceiling, and was built on an old mosque; its most unusual feature is that it mixes traits of Muslim art with Christian Renaissance. Beside the church is the San Antonio fountain, with a verse that promises a bride to the bachelor who drinks its water intending to marry.
From the square you go down to the lower district along Calle Verónica: on the left you will see a primitive tinao, a kind of porch over the house entrance, and a street with no layout, like a cobbled track that once gave access to the vegetable gardens. The lower district was the farmers' one, near the farmland; the upper one, the shepherds', beside the drove roads that climbed to the mountain pastures.
Continuing towards Calle Princesa the first tinao that covers a whole street appears, and going down Calle del Viso, almost at the end of the village, a weaving workshop heir to the old Granada silk industry, where jarapas are now woven from strips of old clothing. On leaving Calle Cristo for Calle Real is the Terrao de las Cámaras, one of the village's largest flat roof terraces, at the same level as the street, where public proclamations were read. The Paseo Federico García Lorca is a viewpoint with fountains and decorative chimneys.
How to do it
Leave the car in the municipal car park at the entrance, and walk up to the Plaza de la Libertad, where the information point is. From there, do the circuit along Verónica, Princesa and El Viso and return climbing towards the upper part: the village is small and is explored in an hour. The streets are steep and cobbled; wear comfortable shoes.
With children and with a dog
With children it is a short walk with a reward: the views from the top. With a dog, on a lead, you can walk all of it along the street.
What to combine
Pampaneira is the starting point of the Poqueira villages trail, which climbs to Bubión and Capileira. To eat, Casa Alfonso, the restaurant of the Hostal Pampaneira, is at the entrance to the village.
- **Guided Climb of Mulhacén from Capileira, with the National Park Minibus** (5 h 30 · Teenagers and fit adults · Desde 80 € per person): Mulhacén, at 3,482 metres, is the highest summit of the Peninsula. From the Alpujarra you climb by its south face, the most accessible: a National Park minibus drops walkers at the Alto del Chorrillo, at 2,700 metres, and from there the route to the summit is direct and without technical sections. The round trip takes between five and six hours, and the company Nevadensis, based in Pampaneira, does it with a guide from €80 per person.
From the Alto del Chorrillo to the summit
You meet in Capileira, at the stop for the National Park's High Peaks minibus, next to the information point. The minibus climbs the mountain track, with a stop at Puerto Molina, to the Alto del Chorrillo. There the walk starts: by the south side, along a direct route with no technical sections, to the summit of Mulhacén.
The descent of Nevadensis's itinerary goes by the west side and passes the Laguna de la Caldera, at 3,050 metres, before returning to the starting point to take the minibus back to Capileira. The company rates it easy-medium difficulty, for hikers with little or moderate experience.
Price, group and what is included
The guided departure costs from €80 per person and includes Nevadensis's mountain guides and liability and assistance insurance. It does not include the picnic or personal equipment, nor any costs arising from bad weather or cancellations. A minimum of four people per departure is needed; if it isn't reached, the company proposes another date or a private departure with a supplement. They recommend holding a mountaineering federation licence. The company publishes departures from June to November.
On your own
The route can be done without a guide if you have mountain experience and the weather is stable: the minibus is the same for everyone. Check the last descent service before you start walking.
Not in a storm
The minibus season runs from Easter to early December, weather permitting. If a storm, strong wind or fog is forecast, do not go up. Bring plenty of water, food, a really warm layer, a hat and sun cream.
To sleep the night before near the stop, the Hotel Finca Los Llanos is at the entrance to Capileira. If you stay to see the villages, see Capileira and its museum.
- **High Peaks Minibus, from Capileira to the Trevélez Viewpoint** (3 h · Families): The High Peaks Interpretation Service is the guided minibus that the Sierra Nevada National Park runs in summer and autumn to reach the high mountains without a private car. On the south side it leaves from Capileira, the highest village in the Poqueira gorge, and reaches the Alto del Chorrillo, also called the Trevélez Viewpoint, at about 2,700 metres, according to the town council.
From Capileira to the Alto del Chorrillo
The departure is next to the park information point in Capileira. The minibus climbs the mountain track with a stop at Puerto Molina, a viewpoint over the Poqueira gorge and the Río Chico de Trevélez, and continues to the Alto del Chorrillo. During the journey the guide explains the history, landscape, geology and life of the high mountains. On clear days you can see the peaks of the south side and, in the distance, the Mediterranean.
From the stops several routes on foot set out: the most sought-after is the climb up Mulhacén. You can go up in one minibus and come down in another, or walk part of the way down if your legs are up to it.
Hours and season
The park gives hours of 10:00 to 14:00 and 17:00 to 20:00, and a season from Easter to early December, always subject to the weather. The service may be suspended or changed without notice if the weather or safety advise it. Outside those dates it does not run.
The price is not published on the park's sheet: it is given when you book. To book, Capileira town council gives the phone number 671 56 44 06 and the email siacsur@gmail.com; the park, the email siacsur.amaya@juntadeandalucia.es. They also inform at the Capileira information point and on the minibus itself. In summer, book in advance.
What to bring
Up there it is much colder and windier than in the village, even in August: bring a coat, hat, sun protection and water. If you are going to continue on foot, mountain footwear and food.
Sleeping near the stop
Before going up, explore Capileira and its museum. To sleep next to the departure point, the Hotel Finca Los Llanos is at the entrance to Capileira. The minibus fits in the Sunday in Capileira and Trevélez.
- **Trevélez, the Ham Village** (1 h 30 · Families · Free): Trevélez lies east of the Poqueira gorge, at the head of its own valley, at the foot of Mulhacén and inside the Sierra Nevada National Park. It has about 900 inhabitants and is spread over stepped districts, lower, middle and upper, joined by slopes, with the white flat-roofed terrao houses and the narrow, cobbled streets of the Berber-origin architecture of the Alpujarra. It is, above all, the ham village.
The queen's seal
Trevélez ham has been cured here for centuries with techniques passed from generation to generation. In 1862 Queen Isabella II granted a royal seal to mark the hams of the area. The natural thing on a visit is to buy ham at one of the village's curing sheds or shops and taste it in a bar or at the table.
From the lower district to the upper
The visit is a walk of an hour and a half, climbing from the lower district to the upper along sloping streets, with views of the Trevélez river valley and the peaks. The interest lies in the village as a whole. Wear comfortable shoes, because you climb a lot.
How to get there without getting lost
From Capileira it is about 35 minutes by winding road; there is also an Alsa bus between the two villages, with the timetables on the sheet for the bus from Granada. Inside the village, do not follow the GPS: the village's hotels warn that it sends you down dead ends and alleys where you cannot manoeuvre. Leave the car in the public car park at the entrance and walk up; in two minutes you are in the centre.
Eating and staying
In the village, the La Fragua restaurant cooks Alpujarran dishes with vegetables from its own garden, and the La Fragua hotel has two houses a minute from each other. Trevélez is also the starting point for walking routes to Mulhacén and the lakes of the south face; from the Poqueira, the climb up Mulhacén from Capileira uses the park minibus. The Sunday in Capileira and Trevélez links the two villages in one day.
- **Aquatherma circuit at the Lanjarón Spa** (1 h · Adults; children's rate for ages 6 to 12 · €33.50 adults · €21 children 6 to 12): What it is
Lanjarón is the first village of the Alpujarra going up from Granada, and its spa is at the entrance, on Avenida de Madrid. It is run by Relais Termal and, besides the hotel, has Aquatherma, a water circuit open to non-guests, in one-hour sessions. It is a stop that fits on the way out to or back from the Poqueira villages.
What the circuit has

Water bar, a pool at 30 °C with a hydromassage bench and jets.
Active pool at 28 °C, with underwater jets.
Jacuzzi at 34 °C.
Toning tunnel, with cold and hot water.
Wet thermal room, a steam bath at 45 °C.
Dry thermal room at 30, 60 and 90 °C.
Scotch shower with pressure, cold and hot, and aroma shower at 22 °C.
Heated loungers to finish.

Price and booking

60-minute session: €33.50 adults and €21 children aged 6 to 12.
Passes: 3 sessions, €85.50 (€54 children); 5 sessions, €127.50 (€75 children).
Booking on its website or on 958 770 454.

The website does not publish session times, nor whether a swimming cap is required, nor the minimum age below 6: ask when booking. Bring swimwear, a cap and flip-flops just in case.
How to fit it in
Lanjarón is on the A-348, the road from Granada to Órgiva and the Poqueira ravine, a good half hour from Pampaneira. If you go up on a cold winter day to Capileira, book the session for the way back: an hour of hot water before the last stretch of driving to Granada.

## Dónde comer
- **Casa Alfonso** (Restaurant, Pampaneira, €€). Qué pedir: the Alpujarran platter with potatoes from its garden, the cured meat board to share or the grilled ox loin
- **Teide Restaurant** (Restaurant, Bubión, €€). Qué pedir: the home-style dish of the day, from the set menu or the à la carte
- **La Fragua Restaurant** (Restaurant, Trevélez, €€). Qué pedir: the Trevélez ham and whatever the garden gives that week
- **Gloria Restaurant** (Restaurant, Capileira, €€). Qué pedir: seasonal dishes with produce from the hotel's garden

## By car: Slow Bends and Parking at the Entrance
By car from Granada you reach Pampaneira in a little over an hour, the last half hour on winding roads. The villages are not driven through: you park at the entrance and walk up.
Presupuesto orientativo: 60–110 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're driving
- **Hotel Rural Finca Los Llanos** (Hotel): Finca Los Llanos is a rural hotel at the entrance to Capileira, the highest village in the Poqueira gorge, at 1,436 metres. It opened in 1990 and has 44 rooms spread over three buildings, each named after a writer who left a mark on the Alpujarra, Gerald Brenan, Washington Irving and Federico García Lorca, and each with its own decor. Down below, along the gorge, the Poqueira river flows from the snows of Sierra Nevada.
Seven types of room
The hotel has rooms for every size of trip. Singles with one bed; standard doubles, with two beds together or a double bed, in the three buildings and with different orientations, some with a balcony; superior doubles, all with a terrace or balcony; triples with three beds, some with a balcony; quadruples with four beds and a balcony; and family rooms, of at least 20 m², with two 120 cm beds for two adults and two children. All have a private bathroom, with bath or shower, and free wifi. The cot costs €8.80 a day.
Booking on its website gets a 5% discount. Prices change with the date and are checked in its booking engine.
Pool, garden and restaurant
The hotel has a pool, open in season, and a vegetable garden. The house restaurant is Gloria, in the same complex on the Sierra Nevada road, with its own website. The hotel website does not publish check-in and check-out times, pet conditions or parking details: ask on 958 76 30 71 or at reservas@hotelfincalosllanos.com.
The gateway to the high mountains
The location is the reason to sleep here if you come to walk. From the hotel you walk down to the centre of Capileira and its museum, and from Capileira leaves the National Park's High Peaks minibus, which in summer and autumn climbs to the Alto del Chorrillo, at 2,700 metres, the starting point of the climb up Mulhacén. From the upper district of the village starts the La Cebadilla trail, which descends to the river and the old power station.
For a two-day getaway through the villages, the weekend in the Alpujarra suggests a route and stops.
- **Hostal Pampaneira** (Small hotel): The Hostal Pampaneira is a small, family-run rural hotel at Avenida de La Alpujarra, 1, right at the entrance to Pampaneira, the first village of the Poqueira gorge, with views of the gorge. It is built on an Alpujarran house and is run by the family of the Casa Alfonso restaurant, which occupies the ground floor. It is simple accommodation, designed above all for hikers, cyclists and anyone who wants to sleep in the tourist heart of the Alpujarra at a good price.
Nine doubles and five triples
All the rooms are outward-facing, spacious and bright, decorated in Alpujarran style. There are nine doubles, with two beds or one double, and five triples, with three beds or one double and one single, useful for a small family. They have a full bathroom, television and central heating for winter; in summer, according to the hostal, they stay cool. In low season, the double for single use is offered at a special price. The hostal has common areas, a meeting room and a large terrace with views of the gorge.
For the GR-7 and the TransAndalus
The hostal expressly addresses those who walk the GR-7 long-distance trail, the European E-4 as it passes through the Alpujarra, and cyclists on the TransAndalus mountain-bike route: it has a room for storing bicycles and gives advice on routes and visits to the park. From the door, in the upper part of the village, starts the Poqueira villages trail, which links Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira.
A table downstairs
On the ground floor is Casa Alfonso, with Alpujarran cooking made with vegetables from its garden, grilled meats, a set menu and tapas with house wine on the promenade terrace. Sleeping here means having dinner a flight of stairs away.
Getting there from Granada
From Granada you go down the A-44 towards Motril and take the exit onto the A-348 towards Lanjarón and the Alpujarra. The hostal is right at the entrance to the village, so you don't need to go into its sloping streets. The Alsa bus from Granada also arrives; the timetables are on the sheet for the bus from Granada.
Price, check-in and check-out times and the pet policy are given by phone, on 958 76 30 02.
- **Hotel La Fragua** (Hotel): La Fragua is two small hotels in the centre of Trevélez, La Fragua I and La Fragua II, a minute's walk from each other and from the restaurant of the same family, on Calle Posadas. They are in the part of the village of narrow, cobbled streets, away from traffic, inside the Sierra Nevada National Park and at the foot of Mulhacén. It is simple mountain accommodation, for those who come to walk or to see the ham village.
Two houses, one reception
Both houses have rooms with television and a kettle, and the whole hotel is heated and cooled by aerothermal systems. La Fragua I has a social lounge with a fireplace, which in winter is the best corner of the house. La Fragua II has a pool for summer, parking, also for motorbikes, and rooms with access for people with reduced mobility. There is a single reception and it is in La Fragua II: even if your room is in the other house, check-in is done there. Prices and offers are checked on its website.
Getting there without fighting the GPS
The house insists on one piece of advice: once inside Trevélez, do not follow the GPS or Google Maps, which lead to dead-end streets and alleys where you cannot turn round. Use the map on its website. There are several parking options, public and private, indoor and outdoor; for many the most convenient is the public car park at the entrance to the village, two minutes' walk from the hotel.
A table at home
The La Fragua restaurant, a few steps away, cooks Alpujarran and Mediterranean dishes with vegetables from its garden. Watch the calendar: it opens until Epiphany and closes in mid-winter, so if you come between January and March ask where to dine.
Trevélez on foot and the mountain
From the door you stroll around the village's districts, from the lower to the upper; the sheet on Trevélez tells you what to see. The hotel suggests activities in the mountains. For Mulhacén, the most-used route from the Alpujarra is the climb from Capileira with the park minibus, about 35 minutes by car away. The website does not say whether pets are allowed: ask on 644 38 14 83.
### Servicios
- **Pampaneira Information Point**: Trail and activity information in the Plaza de la Libertad, run by Nevadensis
- **Capileira Town Hall**: Municipal and tourist information Monday to Friday, 10:00 to 14:00

## On foot: Mule Tracks and 3,000-Metre Peaks
The Alpujarra is walked from village to village along the age-old paths, and from Capileira you climb to the 3,000-metre peaks with the help of the National Park minibus. The GR-7 crosses the district.
Presupuesto orientativo: 55–100 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're on foot
- **Hotel Rural Finca Los Llanos** (Hotel): Finca Los Llanos is a rural hotel at the entrance to Capileira, the highest village in the Poqueira gorge, at 1,436 metres. It opened in 1990 and has 44 rooms spread over three buildings, each named after a writer who left a mark on the Alpujarra, Gerald Brenan, Washington Irving and Federico García Lorca, and each with its own decor. Down below, along the gorge, the Poqueira river flows from the snows of Sierra Nevada.
Seven types of room
The hotel has rooms for every size of trip. Singles with one bed; standard doubles, with two beds together or a double bed, in the three buildings and with different orientations, some with a balcony; superior doubles, all with a terrace or balcony; triples with three beds, some with a balcony; quadruples with four beds and a balcony; and family rooms, of at least 20 m², with two 120 cm beds for two adults and two children. All have a private bathroom, with bath or shower, and free wifi. The cot costs €8.80 a day.
Booking on its website gets a 5% discount. Prices change with the date and are checked in its booking engine.
Pool, garden and restaurant
The hotel has a pool, open in season, and a vegetable garden. The house restaurant is Gloria, in the same complex on the Sierra Nevada road, with its own website. The hotel website does not publish check-in and check-out times, pet conditions or parking details: ask on 958 76 30 71 or at reservas@hotelfincalosllanos.com.
The gateway to the high mountains
The location is the reason to sleep here if you come to walk. From the hotel you walk down to the centre of Capileira and its museum, and from Capileira leaves the National Park's High Peaks minibus, which in summer and autumn climbs to the Alto del Chorrillo, at 2,700 metres, the starting point of the climb up Mulhacén. From the upper district of the village starts the La Cebadilla trail, which descends to the river and the old power station.
For a two-day getaway through the villages, the weekend in the Alpujarra suggests a route and stops.
- **Hostal Pampaneira** (Small hotel): The Hostal Pampaneira is a small, family-run rural hotel at Avenida de La Alpujarra, 1, right at the entrance to Pampaneira, the first village of the Poqueira gorge, with views of the gorge. It is built on an Alpujarran house and is run by the family of the Casa Alfonso restaurant, which occupies the ground floor. It is simple accommodation, designed above all for hikers, cyclists and anyone who wants to sleep in the tourist heart of the Alpujarra at a good price.
Nine doubles and five triples
All the rooms are outward-facing, spacious and bright, decorated in Alpujarran style. There are nine doubles, with two beds or one double, and five triples, with three beds or one double and one single, useful for a small family. They have a full bathroom, television and central heating for winter; in summer, according to the hostal, they stay cool. In low season, the double for single use is offered at a special price. The hostal has common areas, a meeting room and a large terrace with views of the gorge.
For the GR-7 and the TransAndalus
The hostal expressly addresses those who walk the GR-7 long-distance trail, the European E-4 as it passes through the Alpujarra, and cyclists on the TransAndalus mountain-bike route: it has a room for storing bicycles and gives advice on routes and visits to the park. From the door, in the upper part of the village, starts the Poqueira villages trail, which links Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira.
A table downstairs
On the ground floor is Casa Alfonso, with Alpujarran cooking made with vegetables from its garden, grilled meats, a set menu and tapas with house wine on the promenade terrace. Sleeping here means having dinner a flight of stairs away.
Getting there from Granada
From Granada you go down the A-44 towards Motril and take the exit onto the A-348 towards Lanjarón and the Alpujarra. The hostal is right at the entrance to the village, so you don't need to go into its sloping streets. The Alsa bus from Granada also arrives; the timetables are on the sheet for the bus from Granada.
Price, check-in and check-out times and the pet policy are given by phone, on 958 76 30 02.
- **Hotel La Fragua** (Hotel): La Fragua is two small hotels in the centre of Trevélez, La Fragua I and La Fragua II, a minute's walk from each other and from the restaurant of the same family, on Calle Posadas. They are in the part of the village of narrow, cobbled streets, away from traffic, inside the Sierra Nevada National Park and at the foot of Mulhacén. It is simple mountain accommodation, for those who come to walk or to see the ham village.
Two houses, one reception
Both houses have rooms with television and a kettle, and the whole hotel is heated and cooled by aerothermal systems. La Fragua I has a social lounge with a fireplace, which in winter is the best corner of the house. La Fragua II has a pool for summer, parking, also for motorbikes, and rooms with access for people with reduced mobility. There is a single reception and it is in La Fragua II: even if your room is in the other house, check-in is done there. Prices and offers are checked on its website.
Getting there without fighting the GPS
The house insists on one piece of advice: once inside Trevélez, do not follow the GPS or Google Maps, which lead to dead-end streets and alleys where you cannot turn round. Use the map on its website. There are several parking options, public and private, indoor and outdoor; for many the most convenient is the public car park at the entrance to the village, two minutes' walk from the hotel.
A table at home
The La Fragua restaurant, a few steps away, cooks Alpujarran and Mediterranean dishes with vegetables from its garden. Watch the calendar: it opens until Epiphany and closes in mid-winter, so if you come between January and March ask where to dine.
Trevélez on foot and the mountain
From the door you stroll around the village's districts, from the lower to the upper; the sheet on Trevélez tells you what to see. The hotel suggests activities in the mountains. For Mulhacén, the most-used route from the Alpujarra is the climb from Capileira with the park minibus, about 35 minutes by car away. The website does not say whether pets are allowed: ask on 644 38 14 83.
### Servicios
- **Alsa Bus Granada–Capileira**: Alsa line between Granada and the Poqueira villages; about 2 h from Capileira to Granada
- **Pampaneira Information Point**: Trail and activity information in the Plaza de la Libertad, run by Nevadensis

## Car-free: By Bus from Granada
Alsa links Granada with Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira, and Capileira with Trevélez. The journey takes about two hours. Based in one village and with routes on foot, you don't need a car.
Presupuesto orientativo: 50–90 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir without a car
- **Hotel Rural Finca Los Llanos** (Hotel): Finca Los Llanos is a rural hotel at the entrance to Capileira, the highest village in the Poqueira gorge, at 1,436 metres. It opened in 1990 and has 44 rooms spread over three buildings, each named after a writer who left a mark on the Alpujarra, Gerald Brenan, Washington Irving and Federico García Lorca, and each with its own decor. Down below, along the gorge, the Poqueira river flows from the snows of Sierra Nevada.
Seven types of room
The hotel has rooms for every size of trip. Singles with one bed; standard doubles, with two beds together or a double bed, in the three buildings and with different orientations, some with a balcony; superior doubles, all with a terrace or balcony; triples with three beds, some with a balcony; quadruples with four beds and a balcony; and family rooms, of at least 20 m², with two 120 cm beds for two adults and two children. All have a private bathroom, with bath or shower, and free wifi. The cot costs €8.80 a day.
Booking on its website gets a 5% discount. Prices change with the date and are checked in its booking engine.
Pool, garden and restaurant
The hotel has a pool, open in season, and a vegetable garden. The house restaurant is Gloria, in the same complex on the Sierra Nevada road, with its own website. The hotel website does not publish check-in and check-out times, pet conditions or parking details: ask on 958 76 30 71 or at reservas@hotelfincalosllanos.com.
The gateway to the high mountains
The location is the reason to sleep here if you come to walk. From the hotel you walk down to the centre of Capileira and its museum, and from Capileira leaves the National Park's High Peaks minibus, which in summer and autumn climbs to the Alto del Chorrillo, at 2,700 metres, the starting point of the climb up Mulhacén. From the upper district of the village starts the La Cebadilla trail, which descends to the river and the old power station.
For a two-day getaway through the villages, the weekend in the Alpujarra suggests a route and stops.
- **Hostal Pampaneira** (Small hotel): The Hostal Pampaneira is a small, family-run rural hotel at Avenida de La Alpujarra, 1, right at the entrance to Pampaneira, the first village of the Poqueira gorge, with views of the gorge. It is built on an Alpujarran house and is run by the family of the Casa Alfonso restaurant, which occupies the ground floor. It is simple accommodation, designed above all for hikers, cyclists and anyone who wants to sleep in the tourist heart of the Alpujarra at a good price.
Nine doubles and five triples
All the rooms are outward-facing, spacious and bright, decorated in Alpujarran style. There are nine doubles, with two beds or one double, and five triples, with three beds or one double and one single, useful for a small family. They have a full bathroom, television and central heating for winter; in summer, according to the hostal, they stay cool. In low season, the double for single use is offered at a special price. The hostal has common areas, a meeting room and a large terrace with views of the gorge.
For the GR-7 and the TransAndalus
The hostal expressly addresses those who walk the GR-7 long-distance trail, the European E-4 as it passes through the Alpujarra, and cyclists on the TransAndalus mountain-bike route: it has a room for storing bicycles and gives advice on routes and visits to the park. From the door, in the upper part of the village, starts the Poqueira villages trail, which links Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira.
A table downstairs
On the ground floor is Casa Alfonso, with Alpujarran cooking made with vegetables from its garden, grilled meats, a set menu and tapas with house wine on the promenade terrace. Sleeping here means having dinner a flight of stairs away.
Getting there from Granada
From Granada you go down the A-44 towards Motril and take the exit onto the A-348 towards Lanjarón and the Alpujarra. The hostal is right at the entrance to the village, so you don't need to go into its sloping streets. The Alsa bus from Granada also arrives; the timetables are on the sheet for the bus from Granada.
Price, check-in and check-out times and the pet policy are given by phone, on 958 76 30 02.
### Servicios
- **Alsa Bus Granada–Capileira**: Alsa line between Granada and the Poqueira villages; about 2 h from Capileira to Granada

## As a family: Short Village Visits and the Sierra by Minibus

With children, the Alpujarra works with short outings: one village in the morning, lunch and another in the afternoon. The slopes tire you more than they look.

### What works best
Pampaneira, in an hour

Capileira and its museum of customs, open from 11:00 to 14:30 except Monday

The High Peaks minibus to the Trevélez Viewpoint

Trevélez and its sloping districts

### Where to sleep
Finca Los Llanos: family rooms, a garden with animals and a pool in summer

### Where to eat
Casa Alfonso, in Pampaneira: set menu and terrace

### Bear in mind
Baby carrier: the streets are stairs and slopes

On the minibus, a coat for the top

### Qué hacer as a family
- Capileira: Streets, Tinaos and the Pedro Antonio de Alarcón House-Museum
- A Walk around Pampaneira
- High Peaks Minibus, from Capileira to the Trevélez Viewpoint
- Trevélez, the Ham Village

## With teenagers: Their First 3,000-Metre Peak

For teenagers with strong legs, the Alpujarra has a clear challenge: climbing Mulhacén, the highest peak of the Peninsula. Beforehand, the gorge's trails make good training.

### What works best
Guided Mulhacén from Capileira, 5–6 h from the Alto del Chorrillo

PR-A 70, the three villages in 3 h 30

La Cebadilla, up the valley, 4 h

### Where to sleep
Hotel La Fragua, in Trevélez, with a pool

Finca Los Llanos, in Capileira

### Where to eat
Picnic included in the guided Mulhacén departure

Casa Alfonso on the way back

### Bear in mind
Mulhacén with Nevadensis departs with a minimum of 4 people

Summer afternoon storms: summit early

### Qué hacer with teenagers
- Poqueira Villages Trail (PR-A 70)
- La Cebadilla Trail, from Capileira (PR-A 69)
- Guided Climb of Mulhacén from Capileira, with the National Park Minibus

## Consejos

### Park at the entrance to each village
Driving up the streets is a mistake: park below and walk.

### Start the PR-A 70 in Pampaneira
That way you finish downhill and have lunch in the village.

### Book the minibus in summer
The high-peaks service fills up in July and August and can be suspended because of the weather.

### Bring layers
Between Pampaneira and the Alto del Chorrillo there is a difference of more than 1,500 metres.

## Preguntas frecuentes

### How long does it take from Granada?
A little over an hour by car to Pampaneira. By Alsa bus, about two hours to Capileira.

### Which Alpujarra village should I visit if I have only one day?
The three in the Poqueira gorge: Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira, joined by the PR-A 70 trail or a few minutes apart by car.

### Can you climb Mulhacén in a day?
Yes, in summer and autumn, with the National Park minibus from Capileira and five to six hours on foot from the Alto del Chorrillo. With a guide, from €80 with Nevadensis.

### Can you go without a car?
Yes. Alsa links Granada with the three villages, and between them you walk.

### When is it best to go?
In spring and autumn. In summer, for Mulhacén; in winter, with warm clothing.

### Where can you ask for information?
At the information point in the Plaza de la Libertad in Pampaneira or at Capileira town council, Monday to Friday mornings.