# Val d'Orcia from Rome by car: the free hot springs of Bagni San Filippo, lunch in Monticchiello and Pienza pecorino

Two and a half hours from Rome: a free swim in the white pools in the woods, pici on the terrace in Monticchiello and a stop at a Pienza pecorino dairy.

Fuente: https://www.geocalia.com/en/italy/tuscany/val-d-orcia/itineraries/rome-val-d-orcia-springs-day-bagni-san-filippo-monticchiello · Revisado: 2026-11-12

## El día
- 07:30 · Salida: 2 h 30 by car (Along the A1 northwards and minor roads towards Monte Amiata)
- 10:00 · Free hot springs of Bagni San Filippo and the White Whale (Thermal pools in the woods and the Balena Bianca · free · no changing rooms)
  - 45 min by car, 23,9 km
- 13:00 · Osteria La Porta (Pici all'aglione on the terrace · booking · closed on Thursdays) · Osteria La Porta
  - 15 min by car, 9,3 km
- 15:30 · Caseificio Cugusi (Pienza pecorino shop, open every day; picnic from March to November) · Caseificio Cugusi, €
- 16:30 · Vuelta (In Rome around seven)

The Val d'Orcia is two and a half hours from Rome, at the limit for a day, but this plan makes good use of it: it starts at the southern end of the valley, the closest to the motorway, with a swim in the free thermal pools of Bagni San Filippo, goes up to eat on the terrace in Monticchiello and returns stopping at a Pienza pecorino dairy. Bring a swimming costume, towel, water shoes and a bag for wet clothes.

## The day, hour by hour

7:30 · Leave Rome. On the A1 northwards and minor roads towards the slopes of Monte Amiata.

10:00 · Bagni San Filippo. The thermal water runs down a gully in the woods and leaves waterfalls, stepped pools and a great mass of white limestone, the Balena Bianca. It is free and open, with no changing rooms or opening hours. Allow two and a half hours. The stone is slippery: water shoes, and no soap in the water.

13:00 · Lunch at the Osteria La Porta. In Monticchiello, beside the village's medieval gate. Ask for the terrace when you book: the hills of the valley in front. Pici all'aglione or with ragù, bread gnocchi with sage, beef cheek in Vino Nobile. Closed on Thursdays.

15:30 · Pecorino at the Caseificio Cugusi. In the countryside between Pienza and Montepulciano, a family dairy since 1962. The shop is open every day: take pecorino home. From 28 March to 1 November, if you have eaten lightly, you can have a cheese picnic as an afternoon snack under the trees; book it.

16:30 · Return. Via Montepulciano towards the A1. In Rome at about seven.

## With children

They love the pools: the walk is short and the lower ones are shallow, but watch the slippery stone and do not let them climb on the limestone edges. At the dairy, the picnic with several cheeses and bread is an easy snack.

## Cómo llegar

### By car
It is the only reasonable way: about two and a half hours from Rome, and you have to drive between the three places.

## Consejos

### Water shoes and towel
The pools have no facilities.

### Book the terrace
At La Porta, ask for it expressly.

### Take the cheese home
The aged ones stand the journey back well.

## Un consejo más

### If it rains
Swap the pools for the thermal pools of La Posta in Bagno Vignoni, with changing rooms; hot water in the rain is also enjoyable.

## Cuándo no ir

Thursday, if you want to eat at La Porta: it is its closing day.

## Preguntas frecuentes

### How long does it take from Rome to the Val d'Orcia?
About two and a half hours by car.

### Is Bagni San Filippo free?
Yes, they are free hot springs in the woods, with no changing rooms or opening hours.

### Is La Porta open on Sunday?
Yes, at lunchtime and in the evening. It is closed on Thursdays.

### Can it be done with children?
Yes, with water shoes and watching the slippery stone.