# Zagori

An area of 46 stone villages in the Pindus mountains, linked by arched bridges and cobbled paths, around the Vikos Gorge. A World Heritage cultural landscape since 2023.

Fuente: https://www.geocalia.com/en/greece/epirus/zagori · Revisado: 2026-11-12

## Do you need a car?

Almost always, yes. There are KTEL Ioannina buses to the best-known villages, such as Papingo and Monodendri, with journeys of 40 minutes to an hour and a half, but they are few, don't run every day and don't stop at viewpoints or at the start of the routes. The timetables are not on their website: ask at Ioannina station before counting on them. The alternative is a taxi from Ioannina or, for linear routes, having your guide or hotel pick you up at the end.

From Ioannina you leave by the Konitsa road (the Ioannina – Kozani national road). Around kilometre 39, past Kalpaki, on the right is the turn-off for Aristi and Papingo; Monodendri, Kipi and central Zagori come before it, via signposted turn-offs from the same road. Fill the tank in Ioannina: don't count on a petrol station in the villages.

## What are the roads like?

Paved, narrow and mountainous. The climb from Aristi to Papingo crosses the Voidomatis and climbs in hairpin bends: it is short, but you drive slowly and carefully at the junctions. Vradeto, the highest village in Zagori at 1,340 m, has had a road up since the 1970s; before that it could only be reached by the stone staircase. From December to February it can snow in the high villages: carry chains or ask at your accommodation before heading up.

## How do you get there from Spain?

By flying to Athens or Thessaloniki and hiring a car. From Athens it is about 430 km to Ioannina, about 4 h 30, via the Patras motorway, the Rio–Antirrio bridge and the Ionia Odos (A5), with tolls. From Thessaloniki you go along the Egnatia Odos (A2), also tolled, about 310 km to Aristi. Ioannina airport, 4 km from the city, only has scheduled flights from Athens; Preveza receives international flights from April to October and is about 140 km away. The Egnatia also connects with Meteora, to the east, and with the port of Igoumenitsa, 130 km from Papingo, with ferries to Corfu every hour (an hour and a half crossing) and to Italy.

## What closes in winter?

The Astraka refuge closes from November to April, and with it the Drakolimni route makes no sense without winter experience. The park recommends the gorge from April to November. Rafting on the Voidomatis runs all year, with thicker wetsuits and a higher minimum age in winter. Aristi Mountain Resort is open all year.

## Dónde está
- Cerca: Corfu (a 77.3 km), Meteora (a 79.5 km)

## Qué hacer
- **Vikos Gorge from Monodendri to Vikos** (6 h 40 · 12.5 km · Fit, with mountain footwear · On your own · free): The gorge
The Vikos Gorge cuts through the Tymfi massif, in the heart of the Vikos-Aoos National Park, in Zagori. Depending on the source it is between 20 and 32 km long and in places has walls of more than 800 m. The Guinness Book gives it as the deepest gorge in relation to its width. In its final stretch rise the sources of the Voidomatis, a river of transparent, icy water.
Crossing it on foot from Monodendri to Vikos is Zagori's classic crossing: a whole day going down to the bed, walking along the bottom among holm oaks, oaks, dogwoods and junipers, and climbing up the other side. With luck you will see wild goats on the slopes.
The route step by step

Monodendri, at about 1,060 m. Leave the car in the village car park. The path goes down from the village on a cobbled track. If you have time to spare another day, the monastery of Agia Paraskevi is a stroll from the village.
Descent to the bed. The cobbles turn into a path and drop steeply to the bottom of the gorge. It is the hardest part for the knees.
The bottom. You walk for several hours along the edge of the watercourse, which in summer is usually dry on this stretch, among forest and boulders. Halfway along is the only spring on the route.
Sources of the Voidomatis. At the end of the gorge the river gushes out suddenly. It is the place to eat and rest before the last climb.
Climb to Vikos. A cobbled slope climbs to the village of Vikos, the shorter finish. If you have the legs, you can carry on by another path towards Mikro Papingo, which is longer.

Distance, elevation and time
The Vikos-Aoos Geopark gives about 10.6 km and between 6 and 7 hours, with moderate difficulty. The Trekking Hellas guides count 12.5 km, about 825 m of ascent and 1,138 m of descent, with 7 or 8 hours of walking. It is a demanding route because of the duration and elevation, not the technique: you need good fitness, experience of long walks and no vertigo on some edge stretches.
Waymarking and season
The path is marked and well laid out. The Geopark recommends doing it from April to November; the best weeks are in May, June, September and October. In July and August the bottom of the gorge accumulates heat at midday: set out early. In winter, and when the river is high after rain or snowmelt, some stretches can be dangerous or impassable: check the conditions before setting out.
Water and food
There is only one reliable spring, halfway. Bring at least two litres per person and food for the whole day. To start early, sleep in Monodendri: the Hotel Monodendri and its restaurant are in the village.
The way back
The crossing is linear: your car stays at Monodendri. The usual way back is a taxi from Vikos or Papingo to Monodendri, which is best booked in advance; ask at your accommodation. Another option is to sleep on the other side, in Papingo, and return the next day.
With a guide
If you prefer to go accompanied, there are two options with a local guide:

Trekking Hellas: crossing from Monodendri to Vikos with a meeting at 8:00 in Monodendri, finishing around 15:00. Includes guide, poles, snack, local transfer and insurance. For 2026, €85 per person in groups of 4 or more (€120 if there are two of you). From age 12.
Alpine Zone: a private crossing of about 12 km and 8 hours, from Monodendri to Vikos or Mikro Papingo, with a light meal at the sources of the Voidomatis and water. From €70 per person, from age 4. Free cancellation up to 24 hours before.

With children or a dog
It is not a route for small children because of its length. With fit teenagers, yes. You can take a dog, but bring water for it and keep it on a lead: it is a national park.
- **Drakolimni of Tymfi from Mikro Papingo** (9 h · 16.5 km · Fit mountain walkers · On your own · free): What it is
Drakolimni, the “dragon lake”, is a small high-mountain lake in the Tymfi massif, at about 2,050 m, inside Vikos-Aoos National Park. The summits of Ploskos and Astraka stand guard over it, and from its edge you look out over the Aoos valley. A species of alpine newt lives in its waters. Legend has it that dragons lived in the lakes of these mountains and fought each other with stones and uprooted pines, and that this is how they shaped the landscape.
It is the great high-mountain route of Zagori: a long climb from Mikro Papingo, through forest and then alpine pasture, with an optional night at the Astraka refuge.
The route step by step

Mikro Papingo. You leave the village. The path climbs through forest at first, on a steady slope.
The towers of Astraka. As you leave the forest, the path climbs beneath the great limestone walls of Astraka, now in open terrain.
Astraka refuge, at 1,950 m. You reach the refuge about three hours after setting out, depending on your pace.
Down to the plateau and up to the lake. From the refuge the path continues over open alpine terrain to the lake. Allow another hour and a half.
Return the same way.

Distance, ascent and time
According to the Trekking Hellas guides, it is 16.5 km there and back, with 1,370 m of ascent and as much again of descent, and around 9 hours: close to 5 up and 4 down. It is a hard route because of its length and ascent, not because of technical sections. You need to be fit and comfortable with heights.
If you do not want to do it all in one day, sleep at the refuge. That way you climb at a relaxed pace, reach the lake at sunset or the next sunrise, and come down rested.
The Astraka refuge
The refuge is open from early May to the end of October and has a kitchen. A night costs €18, or €13 with a mountaineering club card. Book before you climb, especially at weekends: the phone number and email are on the Astraka refuge booking page. More details on the accommodation are on the refuge page.
When to go
The season runs from May to October. The guides recommend 20 May to mid-July and early September to the end of October. Before May there may still be snow up high, and out of season the refuge is closed. In July and August, set out very early: the climb up the open slope gets a lot of sun.
Water, shade and gear
There is shade in the forest at the start; after that, almost none. Carry water for the whole climb and ask when you book whether you can refill at the refuge. Wear mountain footwear and bring warm clothing and a waterproof even if it is hot down below: at 2,000 m the weather changes fast. Bring a hat, sunglasses and sun cream.
If the weather changes
In summer there can be afternoon storms on Tymfi. If you see storm clouds building, do not continue towards the lake: shelter at the refuge or head down. In fog, open terrain is disorienting; do not leave the marked path.
With a guide
Trekking Hellas climbs in a group from Mikro Papingo, leaving at 6:00 and returning around 15:00. It includes a guide, poles, a snack and insurance. For 2026 it costs €85 per person in groups of 4 or more (€130 if there are two of you). From age 12; departure needs a minimum of 4 people.
With children or a dog
Because of its length it is not a route for children. Fit teenagers can do it, preferably over two days with a night at the refuge. With a dog, remember this is a national park: always on a lead.
Where to sleep beforehand
To get an early start, sleep in Papingo: Mikro Papigo 1700, with its restaurant Veranda 1700, is at the starting point.
- **Oxia viewpoint and Agia Paraskevi monastery** (1 h 30 · All ages · On your own · free): What it is
These are the two easiest ways to look into the Vikos Gorge without going down into it, and both start from Monodendri. The Agia Paraskevi monastery is about 600 m from the village square, hanging on a ledge above the drop. The Oxia viewpoint (“beech” in Greek) is at the end of a road of about 8 km and looks over the deepest part of the gorge from a natural rock platform.
You can do both in one morning: the monastery on foot and the viewpoint by car, or link everything on foot along the Geopark trail.
Agia Paraskevi monastery
It was founded around 1413–1414, when Despot Carlo I Tocco ruled Epirus, according to the inscription over the door; sources disagree on the founder's name. Its chapel is the oldest surviving one in Zagori. Today the monastery is abandoned, with no monks, and some of its buildings are in ruins, but the church and the courtyard are still standing, with the gorge at their feet.
You reach it on foot from Monodendri square along a cobbled path: it is about 600 m, a short walk. Beyond the monastery the terrain continues along the edge of the drop: go only if you are comfortable with heights and have good footwear.
The Oxia viewpoint
The road leaves Monodendri and climbs about 8 km through the stone forest, a landscape of limestone slabs stacked like books, to the end of the tarmac. From there you walk a short way to the edge: below, the gorge at its deepest, and opposite, the walls of the Vradeto side and the Beloi viewpoint. There are no cafés or toilets at the viewpoint.
On foot, the Vikos-Aoos Geopark proposes the Monodendri – Agia Paraskevi – stone forest – Oxia route, taking 2 to 3 hours.
Getting there and parking
Monodendri is about 50 minutes by car from Ioannina. Leave the car at the village car park to visit the monastery. For Oxia, carry on by car along the road leaving the village; it is narrow and winding. In winter, if it has snowed, ask in the village before driving up.
When to go
All year round, with the road clear. May, June, September and October are the most pleasant months in Zagori; in July and August, go early or late to avoid the heat and the groups. At weekends there are more people than on weekdays.
With children and reduced mobility
The path to the monastery is short and suitable for families, but the monastery and the viewpoint are above drops: hold children by the hand and do not count on railings. Beyond the monastery, do not continue with children. In a wheelchair, the cobbled path is difficult.
How to combine it
If you are going to cross the Vikos Gorge, do this the afternoon before: you will see from above what you will walk the next day. For food or a bed, the Hotel Monodendri and its restaurant are in the village. The Kipi bridges are a short drive away.
- **Kipi stone bridges** (2 h · All ages · On your own · free): What they are
Zagori has around forty stone arch bridges, built mostly in the 18th and 19th centuries, when the region's merchants paid for roads and bridges to cross mountain torrents on their routes. The greatest concentration is around Kipi (Κήποι), the lowest village in Zagori, on a hill surrounded by rivers south of the Vikos Gorge. Kipi was called Bagia until 1928 and was at one time the centre of the region.
They are bridges without parapets, with one arch or several, and a back so steeply curved that you climb them like a slope. They are beside the road or a few minutes' walk away, and you can see them in a morning.
The ones you cannot miss

Plakidas or Kalogeriko bridge. The most photographed: three almost equal arches, with spans of 15, 13.5 and 11.2 m, and 56 m long. It was built in 1814, replacing a wooden one, at the order of Abbot Serafeim of the Prophet Elias monastery in Vitsa; hence its name, “the monks' bridge”. The Plakidas family repaired it in 1863 and 1912, which gave it its other name. In August 2018 stones came loose from a pier and it was restored while the riverbed was dry.
Kokkori bridge. A single arch, about 3 km from the Plakidas bridge along the same road.
Other Kipi bridges: around the village there are also those of Kontodimos, Milos and Petsonis. Ask in the village for the way to each.

Getting there and parking
Kipi is in central Zagori, about 15 minutes by car from Monodendri. The Kokkori and Plakidas bridges are on the Dilofo to Kipi road: there are lay-bys beside the carriageway to leave the car. From there, flat gravel paths lead down to the river: about 400 m round trip for Kokkori and 300 m for Plakidas. Beside Plakidas there are stones for crossing the riverbed and seeing it from below.
Allow about 20 minutes at each bridge. With the village ones and a stroll around Kipi, about two hours.
Kipi museum
In the village is the Agapios Tolis folk art museum, with more than 40,000 objects from traditional life. The sources we have consulted give no opening hours or price: ask in the village.
If you want to walk
The Vikos-Aoos Geopark proposes an easy circular route of about 4 hours, Kipi – Vitsa – Kipi, over limestone slabs, a river terrace and natural rock towers. It is the way to see the area on foot and unhurried.
When to go
All year. In summer the riverbeds are usually almost dry and you can go down to the bed to see the arches from below; in spring and after rain the river carries water and the reflection photo is a different one, but do not cross the riverbed. First thing there are fewer people at Plakidas.
With children and precautions
The paths to the bridges are short and flat, suitable for children. On top of the bridges there is no railing and the cobbles are uneven and slippery when damp: go up slowly and hand in hand. With a pushchair you get close, but not to the top of the arch.
How to combine it
The bridges fit into a morning with the Agia Paraskevi monastery and the Oxia viewpoint, in Monodendri. If you are staying in the area, the Hotel Monodendri and the Archontiko Zarkada are close by.
- **Rafting on the Voidomatis from Aristi bridge to Klidonia bridge** (3 h · 6.7 km · Families and first-timers · Desde 42 € per person): What it involves
The Voidomatis rises in the final stretch of the Vikos Gorge and flows towards the Aoos with water so clear you can see the bottom. The inflatable raft descent runs from Aristi bridge to the stone arch bridge at Klidonia, within Vikos-Aoos National Park. It covers about 6–7 km of grade II river: gentle rapids, calm stretches between riverside woodland and rock walls, and at the end a small drop over an artificial weir.
It is a beginner's descent. No experience or great fitness is needed: the guide goes in the raft, gives the commands and everyone paddles. That is why it is one of the few water activities that work with small children.
Who runs it
Two companies with their own bases beside the river:
Alpine Zone

From Aristi bridge to Klidonia, grade II, about 3 hours in total.
From €42 per person.
Minimum age: 3 in summer and 8 in winter.
Meet at their Voidomatis base, in the Konitsa area, 15 minutes beforehand. Free parking.
Includes wetsuit, booties, paddle, helmet, life jacket, waterproof windproof jacket, gloves (and fleece in winter), qualified guides, transfers to the start point and from the finish, changing rooms with showers, a snack and cold water afterwards, insurance and photos.
Free cancellation up to 24 hours before. Book on their website.

Trekking Hellas

About 6.7 km of grade II, passing under the Klidonia bridge, 3 hours in total.
€45 per person in 2026 and 2027, with a minimum of 2 participants.
Minimum age: 4 in summer.
Departures at 10:00 and 14:00 from their rafting base, with changing rooms, toilets and wifi.
Includes IRF-certified guides, wetsuit and booties, waterproof jacket, helmet, life jacket, photos, local transfer and insurance.
Book on their website.

Season
Both companies run all year. In summer the water is still very cold, because it comes from springs, and the wetsuit makes it bearable. In winter you go with a fleece and gloves, and the minimum age goes up. After heavy rain, the flow may rise or the water cloud over; the company decides whether to go out.
How long it takes
Allow about three hours from the meeting time until you are dressed again: safety briefing, transfer to the start point, the descent and the return to the base. Time on the water depends on the flow.
What to bring
Swimwear or spare underwear to wear under the wetsuit, a towel, dry clothes for afterwards and, in summer, sun cream. Do not bring glasses without a strap or anything you do not want to lose; the phone is better left in the car: the companies take the photos.
Getting there
Alpine Zone's base is beside the Voidomatis, in the Konitsa area; Trekking Hellas gives you the location of theirs when you book. From Ioannina you get there by car along the national road towards Konitsa; there is no practical bus, so you will need a hire car. Fill the tank before leaving the city: do not count on a petrol station in the villages. The Aristi to Papingo road crosses the river at Aristi bridge, where the descent begins.
How to combine it
It is a good plan for the morning after the Vikos Gorge, when your legs are tired. In the afternoon, go up to Papingo for the rock pools. For lunch, in Aristi there is Salvia, and for a bed, the Aristi Mountain Resort.
- **Beloi viewpoint from Vradeto** (1 h 15 · 2.8 km · Families · On your own · free): What you see
The Beloi viewpoint is a point of rock on the eastern rim of the Vikos Gorge, above Vradeto. From there you look at the gorge head-on and downwards, in one of its deepest stretches, with the Monodendri side and the Oxia viewpoint on the opposite wall. It is the widest view of the gorge you can get without going down into it, and getting there takes almost no effort: a short, nearly flat walk.
How to get there
First you have to reach Vradeto, the highest village in Zagori, at 1,340 m. You get there by car on a 9 km road from the Kapesovo junction, in central Zagori; from Monodendri it is about 40 minutes. Park in the village square or at the entrance, without blocking the streets.
If you prefer to arrive on foot, you can first climb the Vradeto steps from Kapesovo and carry on to the viewpoint: this is the Kapesovo – steps – Beloi route proposed by the Vikos-Aoos Geopark, taking 4 to 5 hours.
The walk
From Vradeto square, the path is marked with red paint on the rocks and crosses open limestone terrain to the edge. It is about 2.8 km there and back, with around 60 m of ascent and a gentle uphill on the way back. Allow one to one and a half hours, including time at the viewpoint.
There are no exposed sections until the last few metres. There the rock drops vertically, with no railing: do not go within three metres of the edge.
When to go
The best season is May to October. In the morning the sun comes in from the east, behind you, and the wall opposite is lit; in the late afternoon the gorge fills with shade. In summer, the open terrain gets full sun: bring a hat. In winter, Vradeto may have snow and the road ice; ask before you drive up.
Water and facilities
There is no water on the path and nothing at the viewpoint. Carry a litre per person. Vradeto is a village of about twenty residents, so do not count on much to eat; better to bring something or eat beforehand in central Zagori, in Monodendri.
With children or a dog
It is a very family-friendly walk because of how easy it is, but for the last few metres you need to hold children by the hand and keep well away from the edge. With a dog, keep it on a lead as you reach the drop.
If the weather changes
In fog, Beloi makes no sense: you will not see the gorge. If there is a storm, do not stay on a high, exposed spot; go back to the village.
- **The Vradeto Steps from Kapesovo** (1 h 30 · 3 km · With some fitness · On your own · free): What it is
The Vradeto Steps, the Skala, are a dry-stone path that zigzags up the wall of the Mezaria ravine, on the edge of the Vikos Gorge, linking Kapesovo with Vradeto. It has about 1,100 steps and 39 bends over nearly 1.5 km, with about 250 m of ascent. It is believed to date from the 18th century, although it has not been dated with certainty; tradition says it took twenty years to build. The stones, white and black, form three lanes, to separate people from pack animals.
Until the early 1970s it was Vradeto's only way out to the world. The road that goes round the ravine was finished in 1974. In 1988 the steps and the Pera and Dothe bridges, over the ravine, were declared a historic monument.
Vradeto, at 1,340 m, is the highest village in Zagori. In the 2021 census it had 22 residents.
The route step by step
There are two ways to do it.

Climbing from Kapesovo (the classic). You leave Kapesovo by the marked path towards Vradeto and climb the steps to the village. From Kapesovo to Vradeto allow about an hour and a half, depending on pace and photos.
Down and up from Vradeto. If you leave the car in Vradeto, you can go down the steps, about 60 minutes, and climb back up. With stops, allow about two and a half hours there and back.

The Vikos-Aoos Geopark suggests a longer route, Kapesovo – Vradeto steps – Beloi viewpoint, of 4 to 5 hours and easy, which links the steps with the Beloi viewpoint.
Difficulty and waymarking
The path is marked and has no technical sections. It is easy in the sense that you won't get lost, but the steps are tiring: 250 m of continuous ascent. On the way down your knees notice it; poles help.
How to get there and park
Kapesovo and Vradeto are in central Zagori, east of the gorge. Vradeto is reached by car along a 9 km road from the Kapesovo junction, the only one that links it with the rest of the area. In both villages park at the entrance or in the square, without blocking the streets.
If you do the route one way, you have to sort out the return: either someone waits for you in the other village, or you go back by the same steps.
Season, water and shade
It can be done from spring to autumn. In summer set out early: the ravine wall gets a lot of sun. In winter there can be ice on the steps in the shade and snow in Vradeto. There are no reliable springs on the way; bring water from the village.
With children or a dog
With children who walk well, the descent and climb are a fun challenge, but keep them close on the bends, which have no protection. If you don't want to walk, from the top, in Vradeto, you see the whole staircase snaking up the wall. You can take a dog; keep it on a lead if you meet other walkers on the narrow stretches.
If the weather changes
In rain, the polished stones are very slippery: go down slowly or leave it for another day. In fog, the steps are still easy to follow, but the views disappear.
Where to eat and sleep
To sleep in the central Zagori area you have the Hotel Monodendri or the Archontiko Zarkada. If you combine the steps with Beloi, bring food: in Vradeto there is very little on offer.
- **Papingo rock pools** (1 h · 1.8 km · Families · On your own · free): What they are
The Papingo rock pools, called Kolymbithres or Ovires of the Rogovos in Greek, are natural basins that the Rogovos stream has carved into the limestone, between the two villages of Papingo: Megalo (the big one) and Mikro (the small one). The water settles in polished rock bowls, one after another. Above them rises Astraka, in the Tymfi massif.
It is a short, cool outing for the afternoon, after a long hike or a day driving around Zagori.
Getting there
Papingo is in western Zagori. From Monodendri it takes a little over an hour by car, and the last part is the winding road from Aristi.
A simple path leads down to the pools from Mikro Papingo square: it passes a small chapel and zigzags down for about 15 minutes to the streambed. From there you follow the stream upstream: the first pool is about 200 m along, the second 100 m further up and the third, the biggest and deepest, about 80 m after that. In total it is about 1.8 km there and back, with 80 m of descent and as much again of climbing on the way back. Allow half an hour each way and some time in the water.
The streambed is uneven, slippery rock: it is easy, but not for flip-flops. The climb back is more tiring than it looks.
Swimming
The water comes down from the mountain and is very cold. In April it is around 7 °C, which takes away any wish to swim; in July and August a swim is possible, though the water still takes your breath away. The flow changes with the season: in high summer it drops to just enough to keep the pools filled, and in spring or after rain the stream can run high. Do not dive in without checking the depth and do not get in if the water is flowing strongly.
When to go
For looking, all year except when the stream is in spate. For swimming, July and August, in the early afternoon, when the sun warms the rock. In summer, early or late in the afternoon there are usually fewer people.
Facilities and water
There is nothing at the pools: no drinking water and no toilets. Bring water, a towel and footwear with grip. Tavernas and accommodation are in the villages: in Mikro Papingo you have Veranda 1700 for eating and Mikro Papigo 1700 for sleeping; in Megalo Papingo, the Papaevangelou Hotel.
With children or a dog
For children who walk well, it is a short outing with a reward. Watch out for wet rock and deep pools: always with an adult beside them. Dogs are fine, but on the stretches of polished rock they will struggle; keep yours on a lead near other bathers.
How to combine it
The pools are on the way of the Geopark's great Papingo – Drakolimni – Papingo route. If you climb to Lake Drakolimni in the morning, a cold dip on the way back, if you have any energy left, rounds off the day nicely. For the next morning, rafting on the Voidomatis is a short drive away.
- **The Aristi to Papingo road** (10.8 km · Motorbikes and cars · On your own · free): What it is
It is the road to western Zagori, and one of the best known in Greece for its bends. It leaves Aristi, at about 620 m, drops to the Voidomatis valley, crosses the river and climbs in 23 hairpin bends to Papingo, at about 930 m. It is about 10.8 km of tarmac, with a gentle average gradient, around 3%, but with ramps of up to 10% in the hairpin stretches.
As you climb, on one side opens the exit of the Vikos Gorge and opposite appear the walls of the Astraka, above the two Papingo villages. It is not a road for racing: it is the way to get to Papingo, and it is best taken as part of the journey.
The route step by step

Up to Aristi. From Ioannina, take the national road towards Konitsa and, past Kalpaki, the signposted turn-off to Aristi and Papingo. Aristi is a good place to stop for a drink before going on.
Descent to the Voidomatis. From Aristi the road descends towards the river. At the bottom it crosses the Voidomatis by the Aristi bridge, next to where the rafting descents start.
The hairpins. On the other side of the river the climb begins in 23 hairpin bends up the slope. This is the part that gives the road its fame.
Arrival at Papingo. At the top the road reaches Megalo Papingo and carries on a little further to Mikro Papingo, where it ends.

How to drive it
The carriageway is narrow and on the hairpins two cars pass with difficulty. Climb slowly, in a low gear, and sound the horn before blind bends if you can't see anything. At each hairpin, brake before entering and leave room for oncoming traffic. There are few places to stop; if you want to take photos, look for a wider spot and don't stop on a bend.
On a motorbike it is a very popular route: watch the surface on the inside of the bends. With a caravan or large motorhome, think twice: the hairpins are tight and narrow.
When to go
It can be done all year. In winter, with snow or ice, the upper part can get complicated: ask at your accommodation before setting out. In August and on summer weekends there are more cars; first thing you will have a calmer drive.
Fuel and facilities
In the Zagori villages don't count on a petrol station: fill up in Ioannina. If you come by air, at Ioannina airport and in the city there is car hire.
What you will use it for
It is the road to drive to Papingo, the starting point of the route to Lake Drakolimni and the Papingo rock pools. In Aristi you can eat at Salvia and sleep at the Aristi Mountain Resort; up top, at Mikro Papigo 1700 or the Papaevangelou Hotel.

## Dónde comer
- **Salvia** (Restaurant, Aristi, €€€€). Qué pedir: traditional Epirus dishes made with local produce and from the hotel's farm, with a Greek wine.
- **Veranda 1700** (Restaurant, Mikro Papingo, €€€). Qué pedir: local dishes made with produce from small producers and a wine from their list.
- **Monodendri Hotel restaurant** (Restaurant, Monodendri, €€). Qué pedir: tiropita, chicken pie, lamb with lemon or kleftiko, and the house apple tart.
- **Astraka refuge kitchen** (Restaurant, Tymfi, €). Qué pedir: a hot dish from the refuge menu before you continue to the lake.

## By car: By car from Ioannina, with two bases
Zagori is explored by car: the villages are 40–50 minutes from Ioannina and there is no useful transport between them. The comfortable way is to sleep one or two nights in Monodendri and as many in Papingo or Aristi.
Presupuesto orientativo: 90–150 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're driving
- **Mikro Papigo 1700** (Spa hotel): In the village where the climb to Astraka and Drakolimni begins: you set off on foot from the door and come back to the spa.
- **Papaevangelou Hotel** (Small hotel): On the edge of Megalo Papingo, with wooden floors and ceilings. A good finish for the Vikos Gorge if you walk it as far as Papingo.
- **Aristi Mountain Resort** (Spa hotel): Year-round spa hotel with the Salvia restaurant and valley views. It is on the way to Papingo and the Voidomatis rafting.
- **Monodendri Hotel** (Small hotel): Family hotel since the 1980s, with views of the gorge and Tymfi. You have breakfast and walk down to the Vikos trail.
- **Archontiko Zarkada** (Small hotel): Stone mansion with a large terrace, less than a kilometre on foot from the edge of the gorge.
### Servicios
- **Ioannina airport**: 4 km from the city · scheduled flights only from Athens
- **Monodendri car park**: In the village · for the Vikos Gorge and Agia Paraskevi
- **Car hire in Ioannina**: In the city · the most practical way to get around Zagori
- **Petrol stations in Ioannina**: Fill up before driving up · do not count on a pump in the villages

## On foot: From Monodendri to Drakolimni in three days
Three linked stages: the Vikos Gorge from Monodendri to Papingo, the climb from Mikro Papingo to the Astraka refuge and, the next day, Drakolimni and the descent. From May to October, when the refuge is open.
Presupuesto orientativo: 60–110 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're on foot
- **Astraka refuge** (Mountain hut, desde 18 € / bed): The refuge of the Hellenic Mountaineering Federation, between Astraka and Lapatos. You sleep an hour and a half from the lake and set off before anyone arrives from Papingo. Book by phone or email.
- **Mikro Papigo 1700** (Spa hotel): In the village where the climb to Astraka and Drakolimni begins: you set off on foot from the door and come back to the spa.
- **Papaevangelou Hotel** (Small hotel): On the edge of Megalo Papingo, with wooden floors and ceilings. A good finish for the Vikos Gorge if you walk it as far as Papingo.
- **Monodendri Hotel** (Small hotel): Family hotel since the 1980s, with views of the gorge and Tymfi. You have breakfast and walk down to the Vikos trail.
### Servicios
- **KTEL bus station, Ioannina**: Buses to Athens and Thessaloniki daily · to Zagori, few and not every day
- **Ioannina airport**: 4 km from the city · scheduled flights only from Athens
- **Monodendri car park**: In the village · for the Vikos Gorge and Agia Paraskevi
- **Astraka refuge booking**: +30 697 322 3100 · info@astrakarefuge.com · early May to the end of October

## By motorbike: Mountain bends beside the Egnatia
Zagori is a stone's throw from the Egnatia Odos, the motorway that crosses northern Greece from Igoumenitsa to Thessaloniki. The village roads are short, narrow and full of tight bends: you ride them slowly and with views.
Presupuesto orientativo: 90–150 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're on a motorbike
- **Aristi Mountain Resort** (Spa hotel): Year-round spa hotel with the Salvia restaurant and valley views. It is on the way to Papingo and the Voidomatis rafting.
- **Monodendri Hotel** (Small hotel): Family hotel since the 1980s, with views of the gorge and Tymfi. You have breakfast and walk down to the Vikos trail.
- **Archontiko Zarkada** (Small hotel): Stone mansion with a large terrace, less than a kilometre on foot from the edge of the gorge.
### Servicios
- **Ioannina airport**: 4 km from the city · scheduled flights only from Athens
- **Monodendri car park**: In the village · for the Vikos Gorge and Agia Paraskevi
- **Petrol stations in Ioannina**: Fill up before driving up · do not count on a pump in the villages

## By plane: Fly to Athens or Thessaloniki and Drive to Zagori
Zagori is done by car. From Spain you fly direct to Athens or, with Aegean from Barcelona, to Thessaloniki, and hire the car at the airport: it is about 4 h 30 from Athens to Ioannina and about 310 km from Thessaloniki via the Egnatia. Ioannina airport, 4 km from the city and about 48 km from Aristi, only has flights from Athens; Preveza receives international flights from April to October.
### Dónde dormir if you're flying
- **Astraka refuge** (Mountain hut, desde 18 € / bed): The refuge of the Hellenic Mountaineering Federation, between Astraka and Lapatos. You sleep an hour and a half from the lake and set off before anyone arrives from Papingo. Book by phone or email.
- **Mikro Papigo 1700** (Spa hotel): In the village where the climb to Astraka and Drakolimni begins: you set off on foot from the door and come back to the spa.
- **Papaevangelou Hotel** (Small hotel): On the edge of Megalo Papingo, with wooden floors and ceilings. A good finish for the Vikos Gorge if you walk it as far as Papingo.
- **Aristi Mountain Resort** (Spa hotel): Year-round spa hotel with the Salvia restaurant and valley views. It is on the way to Papingo and the Voidomatis rafting.
- **Monodendri Hotel** (Small hotel): Family hotel since the 1980s, with views of the gorge and Tymfi. You have breakfast and walk down to the Vikos trail.
- **Archontiko Zarkada** (Small hotel): Stone mansion with a large terrace, less than a kilometre on foot from the edge of the gorge.
### Servicios
- **Ioannina airport**: 4 km from the city · scheduled flights only from Athens
- **Car hire in Ioannina**: In the city · the most practical way to get around Zagori

## With young children: Bridges, rock pools and a calm river

With small children, Zagori is done in short pieces with the car close by. The gorge and Drakolimni can wait for another trip; the bridges, viewpoints and water work from the start.

### What works best
The Kipi bridges, beside the road with short walks

The Oxia viewpoint, reached by car

The Papingo rock pools in July and August

Gentle rafting on the Voidomatis: Alpine Zone accepts children from 3 in summer and Trekking Hellas from 4

### Where to sleep
Hotels with parking in Monodendri, close to Oxia and Kipi

Aristi, halfway between the rafting and Papingo

### Eating
Cheese and chicken pies in Monodendri

Pack some snacks: there are no shops between villages

### Keep in mind
Cobbled streets and paths with steps: a baby carrier is better than a pushchair

Viewpoints without railings: hold children by the hand

The Voidomatis water is very cold even in August

### Qué hacer with young children
- Oxia viewpoint and Agia Paraskevi monastery
- Kipi stone bridges
- Rafting on the Voidomatis from Aristi bridge to Klidonia bridge
- Papingo rock pools

## As a family: One day on the water and another at viewpoints

With children of different ages, alternate: one day of rafting and rock pools, another of viewpoints and bridges by car. If the eldest already walks well, the Vradeto steps are a short challenge everyone can try.

### What works best
Rafting on the Voidomatis, grade II, three hours with wetsuit included

Kipi bridges and the Oxia viewpoint in the same morning

Beloi viewpoint, a short walk from Vradeto

The Vradeto steps, 3 km and about a thousand steps

### Where to sleep
Hotel Monodendri, with family rooms and triples

Papaevangelou Hotel in Papingo, with triples and a studio

### Eating
Hotel Monodendri restaurant: pies and lamb with lemon

Picnic at the Papingo rock pools in summer

### Keep in mind
The Vikos Gorge is 6–7 h: only with kids used to walking

There are bends between villages: bring something for travel sickness

Outside the villages coverage is patchy

### Qué hacer as a family
- Oxia viewpoint and Agia Paraskevi monastery
- Kipi stone bridges
- Rafting on the Voidomatis from Aristi bridge to Klidonia bridge
- Beloi viewpoint from Vradeto
- The Vradeto Steps from Kapesovo
- Papingo rock pools

## With teenagers: The whole gorge and a lake at 2,000 m

Zagori gives a teenager the chance to come home properly tired. The Vikos Gorge and Drakolimni are full days of mountain, and rafting is the reward.

### What works best
The Vikos Gorge from Monodendri to Vikos, with a guide from age 12

Drakolimni with a night at the Astraka refuge

Rafting on the Voidomatis, with no age limit to hold them back

The Vradeto steps, to test themselves

### Where to sleep
Astraka refuge, in bunks: part of the adventure

Mikro Papigo 1700, at the foot of the climb to Astraka

### Eating
Astraka refuge dining room

Pies to take away from Monodendri

### Keep in mind
Trekking Hellas guides ask for age 12 for the gorge and Drakolimni

Set out early: in summer the heat bears down on the floor of the gorge

There is almost no coverage on the trail

### Qué hacer with teenagers
- Vikos Gorge from Monodendri to Vikos
- Drakolimni of Tymfi from Mikro Papingo
- Rafting on the Voidomatis from Aristi bridge to Klidonia bridge
- The Vradeto Steps from Kapesovo

## Consejos

### Sleep on both sides
One night in Monodendri and another in Papingo let you do the gorge end to end without going back for the car.

### Agreed taxi at the end of the gorge
If you do it on your own, book the return taxi from Vikos or Papingo to Monodendri beforehand. Carry cash.

### Oxya, best first thing
With the low sun, the gorge has relief. At midday the light flattens it and the cars arrive.

### Patchy coverage
On remote paths there is no signal: leave word of your route.

## Preguntas frecuentes

### How many days do you need in Zagori?
Three or four nights: one day for the Vikos Gorge, another for Drakolimni or rafting and one more for viewpoints and bridges by car.

### Can you walk the Vikos Gorge without a guide?
Yes. The O3 path is waymarked from Monodendri to Vikos or to Papingo. With a guide they sort out the return transport, which is the tricky part on your own.

### Can you go to Zagori without a car?
With difficulty. The buses from Ioannina are few and not daily. For a short stay, take a taxi from Ioannina and walk between villages.

### Can you swim in the Voidomatis?
The water is very cold all year: on average it doesn't go above 4 °C. Keep the swim short. The Papingo rock pools warm up a little more in July and August.

### Is Zagori a good destination with children?
Yes, with a plan to suit them: Kipi bridges, Papingo rock pools, the Oxya viewpoint and gentle rafting on the Voidomatis, which some companies accept from 3 or 4 years old in summer.

### Do you have to pay to enter the gorge?
No. The paths and viewpoints are free; you pay for the guide, the refuge or the return taxi if you use them.