# Hvar

A long, very sunny Dalmatian island, with a Venetian harbour town, lavender fields inland, plavac mali vineyards and the Stari Grad plain, divided into plots by Greek settlers in the 4th century BC and a World Heritage site.

Fuente: https://www.geocalia.com/en/croacia/dalmatia/hvar · Revisado: 2026-11-12

## Ferry or catamaran?

It depends on whether you have a car. The Jadrolinija car ferry goes from Split to Stari Grad in about two hours, several times a day; the ticket reserves a space and a time, so buy it at jadrolinija.hr before going to the port in July and August. If you come from the south, the short Drvenik – Sućuraj ferry crosses in half an hour, but Sućuraj is at the eastern tip and you have more than 70 km of road to the town.

Without a car, the passenger catamaran of Jadrolinija or Krilo drops you at the quay of Hvar town itself; Krilo publishes fares from €8.50. There is also a daily catamaran to Jelsa. From Spain the usual thing is to fly to Split; from the airport to the port it is about 25 km.

## Is the car worthwhile?

Only if you are going to move around the island. Hvar town is toured on foot, its centre is pedestrian and everything you do from it leaves from the harbour: water taxis to the Pakleni islands, kayaking, speedboats to the Blue Cave. A car is worthwhile for the Stari Grad plain, Jelsa, Vrboska, the interior villages and the eastern coves. Between Stari Grad, Hvar and Jelsa there is a bus that connects with the ferry. If you drive from Spain, the Croatian A1 motorway to Split is tolled.

## Euro, prices and season

Croatia has used the euro since 1 January 2023, so there is no need to change money. In July and August prices in Hvar town soar: book accommodation months ahead and expect eating at the harbour to cost more than inland. Out of season everything is cheaper and quieter, but there are fewer boats and many businesses close from November to March.

## Dónde está
- Zonas: Dalmatian Coast, Eastern Adriatic Coast
- Cerca: Split (a 47.2 km)

## Qué hacer
- **Climbing to the Fortica (Španjola) from the Square** (1 h 30 · All ages, no pushchairs · Entry €12 · combined €15): What it is
The Fortica, also called Španjola (the Spanish fortress), is the castle that crowns the hill above Hvar town. The city walls, begun in the 13th century, run down from it to the harbour and enclose the northern district. Up there there was already a prehistoric fortified settlement, with pottery that proves long-distance trade from the 8th century BC. The present fortress was built after a gunpowder explosion destroyed the previous one in 1579, in Venetian times. In 1811, under Napoleon, another fort was built on the highest hill, to the north-east, which is not visited with this ticket.
What you see
At the top you walk the bastions and battlements, and from the terraces you have below the harbour, the old town's rooftops, St Stephen's cathedral and, opposite, the whole string of the Pakleni islands. Inside is the hydro-archaeological collection, with amphorae and objects recovered from the seabed around the island.
In summer, Hvar Tourism organises the Fortica Sunset Sessions at the fortress, concerts at dusk: check the dates in its calendar.
How to climb
You leave from St Stephen's Square, the great square by the harbour, and climb the stepped lanes of the Groda district, on the north side of the square. When the houses end a zigzag path continues between pines and agaves to the fortress gate. It is a short but sustained climb, almost all slope or steps. You cannot go up with a pushchair and it is not wheelchair accessible.
Hours and price
The 2026 hours published by Hvar Tourism are 9:00 to 18:00, with entry €12. The €15 combined ticket adds the Hvar Theatre (one of the oldest public theatres in Europe, from 1612), the Loggia, the clock tower and the church of St John; the Arsenal, which also appears on the ticket, is closed to visits. In winter the hours are reduced: confirm them on the Hvar Tourism website or at the ticket office before climbing.
How long
Allow an hour and a half for the climb, the visit and the descent. If you sit to look at the harbour, more.
When to go
First thing or in the last hour before closing. At midday the path is in the sun, without shade, and in July and August the climb is heavy. If you coincide with a sunset concert, it is the best excuse to be up there in the low light.
With children
Children climb well if they are used to walking; at the top there are cannons, loopholes and walls to explore. Watch them on the battlements. Bring water: there are no fountains on the path.
To round off the day
Go down the same way and stay in the square as evening falls, or the next day cross by water taxi to the Pakleni. For dinner in town there is Konoba Menego, on the Groda stairs, on the way to the fortress.
- **Pakleni Islands by Water Taxi: Jerolim and Palmižana** (6 h · All ages · Independently · water taxi from the port): What they are
The Pakleni are the string of wooded islets that close off Hvar harbour to the south-west. They have been protected as a landscape of special value (značajni krajobraz) since 1972 and are managed by the public body More i krš. There are almost no houses: pine wood, white rock, coves of very clear water and a few restaurants beside the landing stages. From Hvar town, it is the closest car-free beach day.
How to get there
By water taxi from Hvar harbour: the town's tourist office estimates a crossing of 10 to 15 minutes. The boats leave the quay throughout the morning and each announces its destination (Palmižana, Jerolim, Mlini…) and the return time. The price is set by each boatman; ask and pay before boarding, and confirm the time of the last return, which in June and September is earlier than in July and August.
If you have a boating licence, you can hire a small boat in the harbour and move around the islands at your own pace: see bike and boat hire.
Which island to choose

Palmižana (Sveti Klement). The best known and best equipped. Vinogradišće bay has a shallow shore of sand and shingle, the closest thing to a sandy beach near Hvar, surrounded by pines and exotic plants, with restaurants, beach bars and trails. For lunch, the Meneghello Restaurant is open from morning to night. It is the easiest with small children.
Marinkovac: Mlini and Ždrilca. Two bays linked by a short path, of pebbles and turquoise water, with pine shade. Very busy in season.
Jerolim. The closest to the harbour. Beaches of rock and stone with pine wood giving shade all day. It is traditionally Hvar's naturist island, although it welcomes everyone.

What to bring
Water shoes (almost everything is rock or stone), a parasol if you go to Jerolim or open rocks, water, sun cream and snorkelling gear: the seabed is full of life. On Palmižana and Marinkovac there is somewhere to eat and drink; in the more remote coves, no.
When to go
From May to September, which is when water taxis run regularly. In July and August the most famous coves fill with anchored boats from midday: set out early. In June and September the water is warm and there are fewer people.
Swimming safely
There are no lifeguards at all the coves. Watch out for boats entering and leaving the bays: swim close to the shore or within the buoyed areas. There are sea urchins on the rock; hence the water shoes.
Other ways to see them
By kayak from Križna Luka, with a guide, you paddle to Jerolim and Marinkovac and stop to snorkel. From above, the Fortica gives you the view of the whole archipelago. And the speedboat excursion to the Blue Cave usually ends the day at Palmižana.
- **Sea Kayaking to Jerolim and Marinkovac from Križna Luka** (4 h · 8.5 km · Families with prior notice, teenagers · Desde 60 € per person): What it is
Half a day of guided sea kayaking from Hvar town to two of the Pakleni islands, Jerolim and Marinkovac. It is about 8.5 km of paddling in four hours, with long stops to swim and snorkel in coves that few reach on foot. No experience is needed: the pace is relaxed and the groups are small.
Who runs it
Hvar Adventure, an activities company with an office in Hvar town, which also runs bike routes and wine tastings. The guides are from the island and speak English. Groups are of 8 people at most.
Two sessions

Morning. Leaves at 9:30, meeting at 9:15. It costs €60 per person and runs from 2 people. The sea is usually calmer and there are fewer boats.
Afternoon and sunset. It costs €70 per person and needs a minimum of 4. It leaves at 16:30 in July, at 16:00 in August (until the 20th) and at 15:30 in September, and returns with the low sun.

Both last about four hours.
The route

Križna Luka. You meet the guide on Križna Luka beach, about seven minutes' walk from the seafront promenade, past the Franciscan monastery. There you receive the kayak and the safety briefing.
Crossing to Jerolim. You paddle towards the nearest island, with the town and the Fortica behind. Stop to swim and snorkel.
Marinkovac. You continue among the islets to Marinkovac, with another swimming and snorkelling stop. If you like, there are restaurants on the islands for a bite to eat.
Return to Križna Luka.

What is included
The kayak (double or single), paddle, spray skirt, life jacket, dry bags, snorkelling gear and the guide.
What to bring
The company asks for a 1.5-litre bottle of water, a hat, sunglasses with a strap, sun protection (cream or a T-shirt), water shoes and something to eat. The sun is strong over the water: protect your shoulders and legs.
Who can go
The effort is moderate: four hours of gentle paddling with stops. With children, tell them when booking: the smallest life jackets are for 3-year-olds and it is best they go in a double kayak with an adult. For people with disabilities, the company asks you to contact it first.
Season and booking
The published times cover July to September. You book on the Hvar Adventure website, by email or by phone, and it is wise to do so a few days ahead in August because of group sizes. In wind or swell the outing may change route or be cancelled: ask how they let you know.
If you prefer to go independently
The same islands are reached by water taxi from the harbour in 10 to 15 minutes. The kayak makes sense if you want to arrive by paddle and stop at coves without boats.
- **Blue Cave of Biševo and Green Cave by Speedboat from Hvar** (7 h 30 · From about age 6; not with back pain · Excursion from €80 · Blue Cave €18–24 extra): What it is
The Blue Cave (Modra špilja) is on the island of Biševo, south-west of Vis. When the sun enters through a crack in the rock under the water, the cave lights up an intense blue, with silvery reflections on the rocks and on whatever is submerged. From Hvar you go by speedboat on a full-day excursion that adds the Green Cave, the cove of Stiniva and other swimming stops, and returns via the Pakleni islands.
Who runs it
Two companies in Hvar town run it as a group trip:

HvarBoats, departing at 10:30 from Križna Luka bay (or pick-up at your hotel or at the port) and returning around 18:30. €80 to €100 per person, depending on the boat.
Hvar Adventure, departing at 10:30 from Hvar town and returning between 17:00 and 18:00. €85 per person on an inflatable and €95 on a large speedboat, with a maximum of 12 people.

Both include boat, skipper, fuel, water and glasses or snorkelling gear. Cave entry and lunch are extra.
The day, stop by stop
This is HvarBoats' plan; Hvar Adventure's is similar.

Green Cave (Ravnik). After about 35 minutes by speedboat you reach the islet of Ravnik, next to Vis. The emerald-green water is due to light reflected off the algae-covered bottom. You enter by swimming or in a small boat.
Stiniva. The Vis cove enclosed between cliffs, with a very narrow mouth. The speedboat anchors in front and you enter by swimming about 20 m or in a small inflatable. You have about an hour to swim; there is a bar on the beach.
Blue Cave (Biševo). The speedboat docks at the Biševo quay, you buy the ticket and wait your turn. A 12-seat motorboat takes you in two minutes to the cave mouth, so low that you have to duck your head. Inside the boatman switches off the engine and moves the boat by hand. You spend about 15 minutes and can take photos.
Optional stop. Depending on the group and time: the Budikovac lagoon, the sandy Stončica beach, the monk-seal cave, the Second World War submarine tunnels or the towns of Vis and Komiža.
Palmižana. Time for lunch and a swim on the Pakleni before returning to Hvar in the afternoon light.

Cave tickets
According to the rate published by HvarBoats, the Blue Cave costs €24 for adults in high season (20 June to 10 September) and €18 in low season (1 April to 20 June and 11 September to 31 October); it is paid in cash or by card. The Green Cave costs €12 in high season and €8 in low, cash only. Children up to age 6 do not pay and those aged 6 to 12 pay half.
If the sea does not cooperate
With a heavy swell or south wind the Blue Cave closes. The companies may cancel or change the route; HvarBoats lets you know before departure and lets you choose between going with another stop instead of the cave, another date or a refund.
Who should not go
The speedboat bounces a lot on open sea. HvarBoats advises against the excursion for anyone with back pain or back surgery, except in very flat seas, and asks pregnant women to tell them beforehand.
What to bring
Swimming costume, towel, sun cream, hat, sunglasses, a change of clothes, a jacket at the start and end of the season and cash for the Green Cave.
- **Stari Grad Plain: a 17 km Loop from the Harbour** (4 h · 17 km · With some fitness; better by bike · Independently · free): What it is
The Stari Grad plain (Starogradsko polje) is the farmland that stretches between Stari Grad and Vrboska, in the centre of the island. It measures about 6 km long by 2 wide, 1,376 hectares, and is the largest fertile plain of all the Adriatic islands. The Greeks of Paros founded the colony of Pharos here in 385–384 BC and divided the land into rectangular plots with dry-stone walls and straight paths. That division is still in use: it is the best-preserved land division of ancient Greece in the Mediterranean, and since 2008 it has been a World Heritage site together with the old town of Stari Grad.
What you see as you walk are dry-stone walls following lines 2,400 years old, olive trees and vines in the plots, stone huts for storing tools (the trimi) and cisterns to collect rainwater. On the northern edge is the Dračevica pond, the only surface water source, which almost never dries up.
The route
Dalmatia Tourism proposes a circular themed route, Following change through the centuries, which leaves Stari Grad harbour and returns to it:

Distance: 17 km.
Time: about 4 hours on foot.
Difficulty: medium.
Surface: 14 km of gravel track and 3 km of asphalt.
Altitude: from 1 m at the shore to 264 m at the highest point.

It follows the straight farm tracks that divide the plots, among walls and stone huts, and climbs to the heights on the edge of the plain, from where the grid can be understood. The track can be downloaded from the Dalmatia Tourism website (dalmatia.hr); carry it on your phone, because the tracks cross and look very alike.
On foot or by bike
By mountain or gravel bike the route is done in half the time and is more enjoyable: the tracks are flat for almost the whole route. Hvar Tourism also signposts two numbered cycle routes that cross the plain: the 704, Following UNESCO, from Jelsa through Vrboska, the plain, Dol and Vrbanj, and the 705, Along the Dračevica, a circuit from Vrboska. In Hvar town, Hvar Adventure organises self-guided routes with a bike and GPS.
When to go
From March to June and from September to November. In spring the fields are green and in September it is the grape harvest. In July and August there is no shade on the whole route except for the odd olive tree: set out at dawn or leave the route for another season.
Water, shade and safety
There are no fountains or bars on the plain. Bring at least a litre and a half of water per person, a hat and sun cream. The plots are private farms in use: walk on the tracks and do not enter the vineyards or pick fruit. Farmers' tractors and cars use the tracks.
With children or a dog
With children who walk, do just an out-and-back stretch from Stari Grad; the 17 km are too much for them on foot. By bike, from about age 10 if they are used to it. With a dog, on a lead and with water for it.
Getting to Stari Grad
The Jadrolinija ferry from Split arrives at Stari Grad, and the island bus links it with Hvar town and Jelsa. To sleep next to the route, Valamar Amicor is in Stari Grad.
- **Velo Grablje and the Gully to Malo Grablje and Milna** (2 h · Families with children who walk · Independently · free): What it is
Velo Grablje is a stone village in an inland hollow, above Hvar town, on the old road to Stari Grad. It takes its name from the hornbeam (grab) and already appears in the Hvar statute of 1609. In the mid-20th century it was the centre of the island's lavender, when Hvar became one of Europe's great producers of essential oil; almost every family grew and distilled it. Today about twenty people live there, but the terraces, the houses and the cooperative still stand.
From the village, a path descends the valley floor to Malo Grablje, its abandoned neighbour, and continues to the cove of Milna, on the south coast. It is a walk of one or two hours, mostly downhill, among dry-stone walls, olive trees and lavender.
The walk, step by step

Velo Grablje. Wander round the village: the church of Saints Cosmas and Damian, the terraced houses and the cooperative building (Zadruga), where the harvest was gathered.
Towards Malo Grablje. The path descends the valley, below Mount Matokit. Terraces of lavender and olive alternate with scrub.
Malo Grablje. A compact village of one- and two-storey stone houses, stepped like an amphitheatre towards the bottom of the hollow. Its inhabitants moved down to the coast and since the 1971 census nobody lives there. You can still make out the square in front of the church of St Theodore, the cistern, the cooperative, the oil mill and the rosemary distillery. It is protected as a historic ensemble.
Milna. The path comes out at Milna bay, on the south coast, where you can swim at the end.

How to get back
The walk is linear. From Milna you can walk back the same way, uphill, or order a taxi to Hvar town. If you go by car, the simplest is to leave it at Velo Grablje, walk down and climb back up: allow double the time for the return.
Lavender and festival
The lavender begins to flower in June and peaks between late June and early July; the cutting and distilling are in July. Every summer, since 2009, the village celebrates the Lavender Festival, with traditional cutting, distilling demonstrations, a market of local products, workshops, exhibitions and concerts. In 2025, the 17th edition was from 3 to 5 July, with all activities free and a free minibus from Hvar town and from Stari Grad. The 2026 dates are not published on the Hvar Tourism website: check in spring.
Guided visit
Hvar Tourism organises a free guided visit to the village, Velo Grablje, an ethnographic village in the heart of the lavender, on Fridays at 10:30. It lasts an hour, no booking is needed and it leaves from in front of the cooperative. Confirm it is still running in the season you go.
When to go
In June and July for the lavender; in spring and autumn for walking in the cool. In high summer set out early: there is little shade on the way down.
With children
It is a good walk with children who already walk: short, downhill and with an abandoned village to explore midway. Watch them in Malo Grablje: some houses are in ruins and must not be entered. The climb back is the hard part.
Where to eat
In Velo Grablje is Konoba Zbondini, a family tavern serving peka and chargrilled lamb. If you prefer to pedal, the bike route through Brusje and Malo Grablje passes through the same villages.
- **Dubovica Beach** (4 h · Families · Independently · free): What it is
Dubovica is a bay on Hvar's south coast, 8 km east of the town, with a wide pebble beach and a seabed best enjoyed with goggles and snorkel. Hvar Tourism describes it as one of the island's favourite swimming spots. Like neighbouring Milna, it has a long shepherding tradition. It is far from the beach clubs and the noise of Hvar harbour, and is chosen mainly by families and people looking for a quiet beach day.
Getting there
Hvar Tourism says it is reached by car or boat. By car, leave Hvar town eastwards along the island's main road, the D-116, towards Stari Grad and Jelsa; the bay lies below, between the road and the sea. Ask at the Hvar tourist office where to leave the car and how to get down, especially in August. By sea, the alternative is to hire a small boat in Hvar harbour if you have a licence (bike and boat hire) or to ask the water taxis on the quay whether they run the route that day.
What you find

The beach. Wide pebbles, no sand, with clear water. For snorkelling, better at the ends of the bay, next to the rocks.
Services. There is a restaurant in the bay, according to Hvar Tourism. Do not count on a lifeguard, showers or sunbed hire apart from what the restaurant itself offers in season.
Shade. Little. Bring a parasol.

When to go
From June to September for swimming; in June and September, with fewer people and the water already warm. In July and August, arrive early if you want a place near the water.
With children
It is comfortable for families: there are no parties, the water is calm in good weather and the restaurant solves lunch. Bring water shoes for the little ones, because the pebbles hurt on entering, and watch them when the south wind blows, which can raise waves on the south coast.
With a dog
There are no published rules on dogs at Dubovica. In high season, with the beach full, think of the other bathers and carry water for it.
Swimming safely
Hvar's south coast is exposed to the south wind, the jugo, which brings swell into the bay. In rough seas, swim close to the shore. There is no lifeguard.
By bike
Hvar Tourism's cycle route 708, Sveti Nikola, leaves from Dubovica, and the 709, Dubova, passes through it on its circuit from Milna via Malo Grablje. If you like cycling, combine the beach with the route through the inland villages.
- **Plavac Mali and Prošek Tasting in Jelsa and Vrboska** (4 h · Adults · Desde 150 € per person): What it is
An afternoon of tasting at two wineries in the centre of the island, in Jelsa and Vrboska, with transport and a guide from Hvar town. You try about ten wines in all, among them the island's red, plavac mali, and Dalmatia's traditional sweet wine, prošek, accompanied by cheeses and cured ham. Since you return with a driver, you don't have to worry about drink-driving on Hvar's mountain roads.
Hvar's wine
The Greeks who founded Pharos, today's Stari Grad, brought the vine in the 4th century BC and planted it on the plain that is now a World Heritage site. Hvar Tourism speaks of more than 2,400 years of wine on the island. The varieties you will meet:

Plavac mali. Dalmatia's red grape. It makes powerful wines, with black fruit and herbs; the best-known vineyards are on the southern slopes, around Sveta Nedjelja and Ivan Dolac, which get the sun and its reflection off the sea.
Bogdanuša. Hvar's own white grape, grown mostly on the Stari Grad plain. A fresh, floral wine.
Others. Pošip, maraština, rukatac and prč complete the list of the island's Dalmatian varieties.

What the outing is like
It is organised by Hvar Adventure, the activities company of Hvar town.

Departure from Hvar. You travel in an air-conditioned off-road vehicle or a minibus, with a driver and guide. The road crosses the island eastwards.
The Jelsa winery. Three wines and a prošek, with a selection of cheeses.
The family winery in Vrboska. The village of canals they call little Venice. In a traditional Dalmatian winery you try five more wines, with ham and cheese. The tasting ends here.
Return to Hvar.

Times, duration and price
It lasts about four hours. It leaves at 17:00 from April to September and at 16:00 in October. In a group it costs €150 per person, for groups of 2 to 8. Privately, €250 per person if there are two of you and €220 per person from three. It includes transport with a driver, the guide and the tasting with snacks at both wineries. It does not include tips or what you buy.
How to book
On the Hvar Adventure website, by email or by phone. In July and August, a few days ahead.
Who it is for
For adults. If you are going with minors, check with the company first. If you are vegetarian or have allergies, say so when booking, because the accompaniment is cheese and cold cuts.
On your own
If you sleep in Jelsa or Vrboska, Hvar Tourism publishes on its website a list of the island's wineries: ask each whether it receives visitors. Inland, in Pitve, there is the ethnographic viticulture collection and wine museum, with tools and objects from country life. For a walk or bike ride among vines, see the Stari Grad plain.
- **By Bike through the Inland Villages: Brusje, Velo Grablje and Malo Grablje** (3 h 30 · 30 km · With some fitness; electric bikes available · Desde 100 € per person): What it is
A bike ride across the plateau of western Hvar, above the town: Brusje, Velo Grablje and the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, among dry-stone walls, terraces, olive trees and the lavender fields that made the island famous. It can be done in two ways: with Hvar Adventure's self-guided route, which gives you the bike and a GPS with the whole route, or independently with your own bike following Hvar Tourism's signposted route 710.
With Hvar Adventure
The activities company in Hvar town hires out the bike with the route loaded on a GPS. There is no guide: you go at your own pace with the device, which shows the way live.

Route: Hvar, Brusje, Velo Grablje and Malo Grablje, with a stop at a family farm with views, where you are served homemade juice and a tasting of local products, and another at the fortress viewpoint.
Distance and time: 30 km in about three and a half hours. The company rates it easy and gives +200 m of climbing.
Bikes: leisure, mountain, road or electric.
Price: €110 per person if you are 1 to 3 and €100 from 4 people.
Includes: bike, helmet, water bottle, GPS and power bank.
Times: morning departure, between 10:00 and 11:00, or afternoon, between 16:30 and 17:30. Bike delivery can be arranged at your accommodation.
Season: March to November; the rest of the year, ask.

You book with the form on its website. They will ask for each person's height, helmet size, your cycling level and the type of bike you want, so have it to hand. If you have allergies or a special diet, say so for the tasting.
Independently: route 710
Hvar Tourism has thirteen numbered cycle routes on the island, from 700 to 712. The 710, Malo Grablje, covers the same circuit:

Departure from Hvar town, next to the bus station, along the D-116 road east to Milna.
Climb on unpaved tracks northwards, passing Malo Grablje, to Velo Grablje.
Return on asphalt westwards, via Brusje, to Hvar.

It is 20.5 km: 17.4 of asphalt and 3.1 of track. It rises from 7 m to 409 m and accumulates 544 m of climbing, considerably more than the company's figure suggests: if you are not on an electric bike, expect long climbs. The track can be downloaded from the Hvar Tourism website.
Difficulty
On an electric bike anyone used to cycling can do it. On a normal bike some fitness is needed: the climb from the coast to the plateau is sustained. The track stretch is short, but with loose stone; a mountain or gravel bike does better than a road bike.
When to go
March to June and September to November. In June and early July the lavender blooms around Velo Grablje and Brusje. In high summer set out early in the morning: on the plateau there is little shade. At the start and end of the season bring a jacket; it is cooler up there than at the harbour.
Water and stops
Bring water from home. In Velo Grablje is Konoba Zbondini, a family tavern serving island cooking, and the village has a free guided visit on Fridays at 10:30. Malo Grablje has been uninhabited since 1971: do not expect services. If you prefer to do it on foot, see the walk from Velo Grablje to Malo Grablje and Milna.
Traffic
The D-116, the island's main road, is a stretch shared with cars and buses, with much more traffic in summer. Wear a helmet and a rear light even if you go independently.

## Dónde comer
- **San Marco (Palace Elisabeth)** (Restaurant, Hvar, €€€€). Qué pedir: Mediterranean cooking with local produce; the menu changes with the time of day.
- **Meneghello Restaurant** (Restaurant, Palmižana (Pakleni islands), €€€). Qué pedir: gregada, the fish stew over potato cooked on the fire, and Hvar wine.
- **Konoba Menego** (Restaurant, Hvar, €€). Qué pedir: produce from the island and Dalmatia, with the house wine.
- **Konoba Zbondini** (Restaurant, Velo Grablje, €€). Qué pedir: peka or chargrilled lamb.
- **Lola Street Food & Bar** (Takeaway, Hvar, €). Qué pedir: a taco, a burger or falafel with hummus, for dinner without sitting at a table.

## Car-free: The natural way to reach Hvar town
The Split catamaran drops you at the town quay, and everything you do from there, the Fortica, the Pakleni, kayaking, speedboats to the Blue Cave, starts on foot from the harbour. For Stari Grad and Jelsa there is a bus.
Presupuesto orientativo: 90–150 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir without a car
- **Palace Elisabeth, Hvar Heritage Hotel** (Hotel, desde 370 € / night): A historic palace on St Stephen's Square, a step from the catamaran quay. Rooms with harbour views, a spa and the San Marco restaurant above the Loggia. Open from May to October.
- **Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort** (Hotel, desde 143 € / night): A resort on its own bay west of the centre, facing the Pakleni, and a walk along the shore from the square. Cots on request. Open from mid-April to the end of October.
- **Hostel Villa Skansi** (Hostel): Dormitories of 6 to 14 beds with enclosed bunks, light, socket and locker, and eight private rooms. Bodul beach is 100 m away and the centre 500 m. Note: the dormitories only admit under-35s.
- **Dink's Place** (Hostel): A small hostel on a quiet street above the sea, a seven-minute walk from the square. A travellers' atmosphere and the bus station nearby.
### Servicios
- **Split – Hvar Town Catamaran (Jadrolinija and Krilo)**: Passengers only · arrives at the town harbour · Krilo from €8.50
- **Island Bus (Čazmatrans Otok Hvar)**: Hvar – Stari Grad – Jelsa · connects with the ferry · timetable at visithvar.hr
- **Bike and Small Boat Hire in Hvar**: Self-guided bike or e-bike route with GPS (Hvar Adventure, from €100 per person) · boats from €90 a day with a licence (HvarBoats)

## By car: Useful for the island, a hindrance in town
The car goes on the Split to Stari Grad ferry, or via Drvenik – Sućuraj if you come from the south. It is useful for the plain, Jelsa, Vrboska and the eastern coves. In Hvar town the centre is pedestrian: leave it outside and do not move it.
Presupuesto orientativo: 80–130 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're driving
- **Camp Vira** (Campsite): A campsite in a cove on the north coast, 4 km from the town, with pitches for tents and motorhomes. It is 20 km from the Stari Grad ferry. Without a car or motorbike, the centre is out of the way.
- **Kamp Grebišće** (Campsite): A campsite in a sheltered cove next to Jelsa, with two sand beaches with gentle entry to the water, good for children. Open from April to mid-October (in 2026, from 20 April to 16 October). It is in the centre of the island, good for cycling on the Stari Grad plain.
- **Valamar Amicor Resort** (Hotel): A family resort in the Helios development of Stari Grad, near the old town. It has a water park with slides, a play area and parking: the comfortable base if you bring a car.
### Servicios
- **Split – Stari Grad Car Ferry (Jadrolinija, line 635)**: About 2 h crossing · buy the car ticket in advance in summer
- **Drvenik – Sućuraj Ferry (Jadrolinija, line 632)**: 30 min · the entrance from the east if you come down the coast towards Dubrovnik

## Luxury: Five-star hotels on the harbour
Hvar town has luxury hotels at the foot of the quay, tables with views over the square and private speedboats for the islands. You arrive by boat from Split airport without setting foot on the road.
Presupuesto orientativo: 350–600 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir in style
- **Palace Elisabeth, Hvar Heritage Hotel** (Hotel, desde 370 € / night): A historic palace on St Stephen's Square, a step from the catamaran quay. Rooms with harbour views, a spa and the San Marco restaurant above the Loggia. Open from May to October.
- **Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort** (Hotel, desde 143 € / night): A resort on its own bay west of the centre, facing the Pakleni, and a walk along the shore from the square. Cots on request. Open from mid-April to the end of October.
### Servicios
- **Split – Hvar Town Catamaran (Jadrolinija and Krilo)**: Passengers only · arrives at the town harbour · Krilo from €8.50
- **Private Boat Transfer to Split and Its Airport**: HvarBoats · speedboat with skipper and fuel · from €400 to Split and €450 to the airport
- **Bike and Small Boat Hire in Hvar**: Self-guided bike or e-bike route with GPS (Hvar Adventure, from €100 per person) · boats from €90 a day with a licence (HvarBoats)

## Backpacking: Party in summer, cheap island in spring
Hvar has hostels in the town and good transport, but in July and August everything goes up. A lot is free: the Stari Grad plain, the walk from Velo Grablje to Milna and the beaches of the east coast.
Presupuesto orientativo: 45–70 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're backpacking
- **Hostel Villa Skansi** (Hostel): Dormitories of 6 to 14 beds with enclosed bunks, light, socket and locker, and eight private rooms. Bodul beach is 100 m away and the centre 500 m. Note: the dormitories only admit under-35s.
- **Dink's Place** (Hostel): A small hostel on a quiet street above the sea, a seven-minute walk from the square. A travellers' atmosphere and the bus station nearby.
### Servicios
- **Split – Hvar Town Catamaran (Jadrolinija and Krilo)**: Passengers only · arrives at the town harbour · Krilo from €8.50
- **Island Bus (Čazmatrans Otok Hvar)**: Hvar – Stari Grad – Jelsa · connects with the ferry · timetable at visithvar.hr

## Camping: Two cove campsites, one in each half
On the island you cannot camp outside campsites. Vira is near Hvar town; Grebišće, next to Jelsa, in the centre of the island. Both need a car or motorbike to get around.
Presupuesto orientativo: 40–70 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're camping
- **Camp Vira** (Campsite): A campsite in a cove on the north coast, 4 km from the town, with pitches for tents and motorhomes. It is 20 km from the Stari Grad ferry. Without a car or motorbike, the centre is out of the way.
- **Kamp Grebišće** (Campsite): A campsite in a sheltered cove next to Jelsa, with two sand beaches with gentle entry to the water, good for children. Open from April to mid-October (in 2026, from 20 April to 16 October). It is in the centre of the island, good for cycling on the Stari Grad plain.
### Servicios
- **Split – Stari Grad Car Ferry (Jadrolinija, line 635)**: About 2 h crossing · buy the car ticket in advance in summer
- **Drvenik – Sućuraj Ferry (Jadrolinija, line 632)**: 30 min · the entrance from the east if you come down the coast towards Dubrovnik

## By bike: Thirteen signposted routes and one end to end
Hvar Tourism numbers thirteen bike routes, from 700 to 712; the Lesina crosses the whole island, 174 km from Hvar to Sućuraj. The centre of the island, between Stari Grad and Jelsa, is flat; the west climbs towards the lavender villages.
Presupuesto orientativo: 60–100 € por persona y día.
### Dónde dormir if you're cycling
- **Kamp Grebišće** (Campsite): A campsite in a sheltered cove next to Jelsa, with two sand beaches with gentle entry to the water, good for children. Open from April to mid-October (in 2026, from 20 April to 16 October). It is in the centre of the island, good for cycling on the Stari Grad plain.
- **Valamar Amicor Resort** (Hotel): A family resort in the Helios development of Stari Grad, near the old town. It has a water park with slides, a play area and parking: the comfortable base if you bring a car.
### Servicios
- **Split – Stari Grad Car Ferry (Jadrolinija, line 635)**: About 2 h crossing · buy the car ticket in advance in summer
- **Bike and Small Boat Hire in Hvar**: Self-guided bike or e-bike route with GPS (Hvar Adventure, from €100 per person) · boats from €90 a day with a licence (HvarBoats)

## By plane: Flight to Split and Catamaran to Hvar
Hvar has no airport with flights from Spain: you fly to Split, with direct flights in season from Madrid and Barcelona, and cross by boat. From the airport to the port of Split it is about 25 km, with a shuttle. There, the passenger catamaran drops you at the quay of Hvar town and the car ferry arrives at Stari Grad, in about two hours.
### Dónde dormir if you're flying
- **Palace Elisabeth, Hvar Heritage Hotel** (Hotel, desde 370 € / night): A historic palace on St Stephen's Square, a step from the catamaran quay. Rooms with harbour views, a spa and the San Marco restaurant above the Loggia. Open from May to October.
- **Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort** (Hotel, desde 143 € / night): A resort on its own bay west of the centre, facing the Pakleni, and a walk along the shore from the square. Cots on request. Open from mid-April to the end of October.
- **Hostel Villa Skansi** (Hostel): Dormitories of 6 to 14 beds with enclosed bunks, light, socket and locker, and eight private rooms. Bodul beach is 100 m away and the centre 500 m. Note: the dormitories only admit under-35s.
- **Dink's Place** (Hostel): A small hostel on a quiet street above the sea, a seven-minute walk from the square. A travellers' atmosphere and the bus station nearby.
- **Valamar Amicor Resort** (Hotel): A family resort in the Helios development of Stari Grad, near the old town. It has a water park with slides, a play area and parking: the comfortable base if you bring a car.
### Servicios
- **Split – Hvar Town Catamaran (Jadrolinija and Krilo)**: Passengers only · arrives at the town harbour · Krilo from €8.50
- **Private Boat Transfer to Split and Its Airport**: HvarBoats · speedboat with skipper and fuel · from €400 to Split and €450 to the airport

## As a family: Better outside town than at the harbour

Hvar town at night is a party; by day, with children, getting out on the water works. The Pakleni by water taxi and kayaking cover two days, and the coves in the east and centre of the island are quieter than the harbour.

### What works best
Pakleni islands by water taxi: Jerolim a few minutes away, Palmižana with shade and restaurants

Kayaking to Jerolim and Marinkovac: life jackets from age 3, mention it when booking

The Fortica first thing, with the whole harbour below

Velo Grablje and the path to Malo Grablje, with lavender in summer

### Where to sleep
Valamar Amicor in Stari Grad, with a water park

Kamp Grebišće, with sand beaches with gentle entry

Amfora, on its own bay and with cots

### Where to eat
Meneghello, at Palmižana, open all day

Konoba Menego, halfway to the Fortica

### Keep in mind
The climb to the Fortica has stairs: a baby carrier, not a pushchair

Blue Cave: up to age 6 they do not pay entry, but it is 7–8 h by speedboat

If you stay in town, in July and August the nights are noisy near the harbour

### Qué hacer as a family
- Climbing to the Fortica (Španjola) from the Square
- Pakleni Islands by Water Taxi: Jerolim and Palmižana
- Sea Kayaking to Jerolim and Marinkovac from Križna Luka
- Velo Grablje and the Gully to Malo Grablje and Milna
- Dubovica Beach

## With teenagers: Sea, speedboat and bike to wear them out

Hvar gives a teenager a speedboat day to the Vis caves, a kayak morning with snorkelling and bike routes with some climbing. What bores them: the wineries and the town at midday.

### What works best
Blue Cave and Green Cave by speedboat: the big day, with a swim at Stiniva

An 8.5 km kayak around the Pakleni, with snorkelling goggles

30 km by bike through Brusje and the lavender villages, with an e-bike if needed

The Stari Grad plain by bike: flat and car-free

### Where to sleep
Camping, if they like a cove at the door

A hotel with a pool in Stari Grad

### Where to eat
Street food in central Hvar

A picnic on the boat

### Keep in mind
The Blue Cave closes in heavy swell: leave a day's margin

At the caves, half price only goes up to age 12

Hvar harbour's night is all bars: with them, a better base is Stari Grad or Jelsa

### Qué hacer with teenagers
- Climbing to the Fortica (Španjola) from the Square
- Sea Kayaking to Jerolim and Marinkovac from Križna Luka
- Blue Cave of Biševo and Green Cave by Speedboat from Hvar
- Stari Grad Plain: a 17 km Loop from the Harbour
- By Bike through the Inland Villages: Brusje, Velo Grablje and Malo Grablje

## Consejos

### Climb the Fortica early
It opens at 9:00. At that hour the path has shade and the harbour is still empty.

### Ask the time of the last water taxi
In June and September the last return from the Pakleni leaves earlier than in August.

### Leave a day's margin for the Blue Cave
With a heavy swell it cannot be entered and the excursion is changed or postponed.

### Sleep according to what you are after
Hvar town is noisy in summer. Stari Grad and Jelsa are quieter and a better base with a car.

## Preguntas frecuentes

### How do you get to Hvar from Split?
By car ferry to Stari Grad (about 2 h, Jadrolinija) or by passenger catamaran to Hvar town (Jadrolinija and Krilo). Buy the car-ferry ticket in advance in summer.

### What currency is used?
The euro, since 1 January 2023. Carry some cash for the island bus, entry to the Green Cave and water taxis.

### How much does it cost to enter the Fortica?
€12 per adult. The €15 combined ticket also includes the Hvar Theatre, the Loggia, the clock tower and the church of St John.

### Can you go to the Blue Cave from Hvar?
Yes, by speedboat in a day, departing around 10:30 and returning in the afternoon, from about €80. Cave entry is paid separately: €24 in high season and €18 from April to 20 June and from 11 September to October; free up to age 6.

### When does the lavender bloom?
Late June and early July, when the Velo Grablje Lavender Festival is held. The 2025 edition was from 3 to 5 July.

### Is there camping on Hvar?
Yes, at campsites: Camp Vira, 4 km from the town, and Kamp Grebišće, in Jelsa. Wild camping is not allowed in Croatia.

### Do you need a passport?
No. Croatia has been in the Schengen area since 2023: a valid ID card is enough.